Domaine Michel Redde & Fils - Pouilly-Fumé Les Bois de Saint-Andelain 2023

Sébastien and Romain Redde continue to build on the success of this iconic Pouilly estate, founded in the 1950s by their grandfather Michel. Actively developed by their father, Thierry, the lineup covers the appellation’s five terroirs. They have since carefully structured it into single-vineyard cuvées, spread across 40 hectares of vineyards (including 1.5 hectares of Chasselas). In 2016, the “Barre-à-Mine” cuvée was introduced, sourced from a former flint quarry planted at a density of 10,000 vines per hectare and restored after a long, titanic effort. The “Majorum” cuvée is the flagship of the range, produced from the oldest vines and released only in exceptional vintages. The well-equipped winery, meticulous aging processes, and the two brothers’ commitment to continuous improvement solidify this estate’s place among the region’s greatest successes.

A smoky, fresh, well-structured wine with mouthwatering mineral and fruity aromas. Grown on a clay-siliceous terroir at the very top of the appellation, the vines are “stress-free,” according to winemaker Sébastien Redde, and ripen early. The flint imparts an austere firmness to the wine, which is deeply flavorful. The acidity is high but ripe, and the wine manages to achieve a magical balance between power and density without feeling heavy. Made from vines planted in 1970.

The estate was founded in the 17th century by a man named François Redde, a winemaker in Pouilly-sur-Loire. His distant descendant, Michel Redde, revived the winery in the 1950s. Thierry, his son, and his grandsons Sébastien and Romain now run the 40-hectare estate, which is in the process of converting to organic farming.

I absolutely love the Bois de Saint Andelain, with its beautifully delicate texture, sculpted by lovely bitter notes.

This historic estate—one of the few to grow Chasselas grapes—is now run by Thierry Redde’s two sons, Sébastien and Romain. Alongside fairly classic wines that are never treated with enzymes or yeast (such as La Moynerie or the very ripe Majorum), the lineup—at the initiative of the new generation—is organized by terroir: Les Bois de Saint-Andelain (red flint-rich clay), Les Cornets (Kimmeridgian marl), Champs des Billons (Portlandian limestone), Barre à Mine (high-density vines planted with a pickaxe in a former flint quarry), and, most recently, Les Toupées (Oxfordian limestone). The most recent vintages are crafted with meticulous care and undeniable integrity.

Les Bois de Saint-Andelain 2023 is a serious, firm Pouilly-Fumé with a long finish. Although it offers young, fresh aromas of pineapple and pear on the nose, it emphasizes texture over aromas. The 2023 finishes with a slightly bitter note of orange.