Domaine Michel Redde & Fils - Pouilly-Fumé Barre à Mine 2023

Sébastien and Romain Redde continue to build on the success of this iconic Pouilly estate, founded in the 1950s by their grandfather Michel. Actively developed by their father, Thierry, the lineup covers the appellation’s five terroirs. They have since carefully structured it into single-vineyard cuvées, spread across 40 hectares of vineyards (including 1.5 hectares of Chasselas). In 2016, the “Barre-à-Mine” cuvée was introduced, sourced from a former flint quarry planted at a density of 10,000 vines per hectare and restored after a long, titanic effort. The “Majorum” cuvée is the flagship of the range, produced from the oldest vines and released only in exceptional vintages. The well-equipped winery, meticulous aging processes, and the two brothers’ commitment to continuous improvement solidify this estate’s place among the region’s greatest successes.

The nose offers citrus, lemon, and grapefruit, with notes of passion fruit. The palate is very ripe; this energetic style reveals citrus and floral fruit aromas combined with a firm, mineral, and textured complexity. With beautiful concentration and freshness, this premium wine comes from young vines planted in pure flint soil, sourced from an old flint quarry that was dynamited ten years ago to make way for the vineyards. It reveals the underlying power of the terroir and the concentrated minerality of wines from flint soils. A fascinating wine, full of character, that will benefit from being cellared for a few years.

The estate was founded in the 17th century by a man named François Redde, a winemaker in Pouilly-sur-Loire. His distant descendant, Michel Redde, revived the winery in the 1950s. Thierry, his son, and his grandsons Sébastien and Romain now run the 40-hectare estate, which is in the process of converting to organic farming.

This is one of Pouilly-Fumé’s most ambitious vintages, yet it remains perfectly rooted in its very hard flint terroir. Enchanting notes of violet and raspberry: an exceptional aroma found nowhere else. With remarkable precision, it offers clarity and subtle nuances. It is already approachable in 2023, a vintage with low concentration.

This historic estate—one of the few to grow Chasselas grapes—is now run by Thierry Redde’s two sons, Sébastien and Romain. Alongside fairly classic wines that are never treated with enzymes or yeast (such as La Moynerie or the very ripe Majorum), the lineup—at the initiative of the new generation—is organized by terroir: Les Bois de Saint-Andelain (red flint-rich clay), Les Cornets (Kimmeridgian marl), Champs des Billons (Portlandian limestone), Barre à Mine (high-density vines planted with a pickaxe in a former flint quarry), and, most recently, Les Toupées (Oxfordian limestone). The most recent vintages are crafted with meticulous care and undeniable integrity.

The 2023 Barre à Mine starts off round and open. It’s more expressive on the nose at this early stage than other flint-based wines, though this may be due to the youth of the vines. It’s delicate but quite lovely, with floral and nectarine notes. It may not be the most concentrated expression, but it is quite open and displays a maturity tinged with alcohol on the finish (13.5%). The 2023 ends on a tense and somewhat restrained note, as if it were trapped in a straitjacket and trying to break free. This terroir has a lot of potential.