Thierry Germain - Domaine des Roches Neuves - Les Mémoires 2023 (vignes de 118 ans!)
94/100 Coup de Cœur
RVF
93/100
Vinous
“Memorable!”
"The 2023 vintage of Les Mémoires is precise, delicate, and lively, yet never lacking in concentration. It is a very understated yet multifaceted wine, with lovely momentum and a beautiful finish. Its powdery, lingering tannins give it a texture of great finesse. It will open up and gain richness with age. The 2023 vintage comes from vines dating back to 1904, planted on clay-limestone and siliceous soils.” (Vinous 2025).
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Eye
Deep ruby color
Nose
Hints of mint, red fruit liqueur, star anise, wild strawberries
Palate
A bold and powerful attack, velvety and sensual, with a finish of great mineral purity
Serve
Decant at 16°C
Open
1 hour before, in a carafe
Drink from
2028
Drink before
2036
Food and wine pairings
Enjoy it with steak tartare, red meat, game...
Bettane & Desseauve
Rated estate (2026 guide) 5*Stars (Exceptional producers, those representing the absolute pinnacle of quality in France and around the world)
About the estate:
Thierry Germain has made his estate a benchmark and a leading name in biodynamic winemaking and fine Loire wines, while successfully passing on his passion to Jeanne and Louis, his children, who now work alongside him. The dense, energetic wines showcase the magnificent limestone terroirs of the Saumur-Champigny appellation, particularly the single-vineyard cuvées Clos Romans and Clos de L'Echelier. Low yields result in beautifully concentrated reds that are silky and long on the palate.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Rated wine (2026 guide) 94/100 Favorite
Rated estate (2026 guide) 3*Stars (These represent the pinnacle of French winemaking. The finest terroirs cultivated by the greatest winemakers. Tasting their wine is always a magical experience)
About the wine:
"Les Mémoires" always offers something unique, something deeper, more subtle, and more complex.
About the estate:
The charismatic Thierry Germain has developed a distinctive stylistic approach to Saumur-Champigny and Saumur whites. The significant work undertaken in the vineyards (using biodynamic methods, with some plowed by horse) is evident even in the estate’s basic cuvée. The latest vintages of white wine reveal a remarkable saline brightness, capturing the essence of Chenin’s chalky expression on tuffeau soil. They delight both the palate and the body! The quest for crispness and a chiseled edge is undeniable in the reds, which can exhibit a delightful floral character. We are, however, convinced that they could reveal a more velvety, graceful, and ripe balance of Loire Cabernet Franc, in the style of La Marginale, whose vertical tasting in April 2024 confirmed its aging potential.
Vinous
Wine rated (205 guide) 93/100
