Domaine du Clos Naudin - Vouvray Moelleux Réserve 2022

The Moelleux Réserve, made from botrytized grapes and the true quintessence of the estate, is produced only in exceptional vintages; for this exceptional cuvée, Vincent and Philippe Foreau sacrificed a large portion of the 2018 dry wine, where the 132 grams of residual sugar are absolutely enlivened by a very pure mineral tension. The wine has evolved perfectly since our last tasting; its shimmering aroma features dried and candied fruits, with a touch of yellow fruit that shines through in a majestic palate, culminating in a radiant, perfectly energetic finish that builds in intensity. We’re counting down the days…

On these 11.5 hectares, which will be certified organic in 2024, Vincent Foreau is taking over from his father, Philippe. The dry wines, with vibrant finishes of citrus zest, gain in refinement with age. A vertical tasting dating back to 1947 demonstrates their ability to stand the test of time. The sweet wines are fantastic for their dense texture, supported by just the right amount of tension, and the most recent vintages of these gastronomic wines possess remarkable vitality. A fifth star is well deserved.

Bursting with notes of quince, herbs, spices, orange marmalade, and exotic fruits, the 2022 Vouvray Moelleux Réserve is already a delight to drink, even though its immense aging potential is undeniable. Full-bodied, dense, and concentrated, it is remarkably precise, pure, and harmonious, with a fleshy, enveloping fruit core balanced by lively acidity and a subtle hint of gastronomic bitterness, culminating in a long, mineral, and refreshing finish. Produced only about three times per decade, this rare cuvée is crafted from a meticulous selection of botrytized and dried grapes. Residual sugar: 150 grams per liter. Quite simply, this is the wine you’d want to have with you on a desert island.

Still somewhat reserved at this stage, the velvety 2022 Réserve reveals lush richness, a full-bodied texture, exceptional density, and a firm, almost tannic sensation on the palate. It possesses an invigorating freshness that powerfully stimulates the senses.

When tasting Philippe Foreau’s Vouvray wines, everything becomes clear and evident in the Chenin. What is complex is also rich and indulgent; what is fully ripe remains, nonetheless, taut; what is good from the start is confirmed and deepens over the decades. Pure, with a long finish and proverbial persistence, the Vouvray wines from Clos Naudin possess the consistency of a metronome despite the variations in the Loire climate. The “perruches” (clay-flint soils) lend distinct character to the estate’s wines, which are equally at home as sweet wines as they are as dry ones; even the sparkling wines are crafted with the utmost care. The style is often quite rich, more baroque than at Domaine Huet, and no less powerful in its lingering finish. The most recent vintages are brilliantly crafted by Vincent, Philippe’s son. A memorable experience at the estate: the recent tasting of a marvelous 1945 sweet wine, which is still far from having reached its peak.