Domaine Brusset - Cairanne L'Esprit de Papet 2022
91/100
James Suckling
“A comforting nose of ripe pears, white peaches, and honeysuckle. It is moderately full-bodied with a round, creamy texture on the palate and a fruity character. It is rich yet remains balanced, with plenty of flavor on the finish that evokes bitter almonds. Enjoy now.” (James Suckling 2023).
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Eye
A dense, luminous gold-silver color
Nose
Aromas of white flowers and white fruits (peach, pear) with spicy notes of white pepper
Palate
Harmonious, fresh, and powerful, with a hint of toasted hazelnut on the finish and a long, mineral-driven aftertaste
Serve
At 10-12°C
Drink before
2032
Food and wine pairings
Pairs well with citrus-flavored scallops, capon with wild mushroom sauce, butternut squash risotto, crab, aged Comté cheese...
Bettane & Desseauve
Rated 2 stars (A solid, recommendable production, though slightly more conventional and uniform than the previous one)
About the estate:
Laurent, André’s grandson and now the estate’s manager, produces a wide range of wines from nearly 70 plots, including terraced vineyards in the spectacular Dentelles de Montmirail. This fragmentation proves to be an advantage during the blending process. It’s worth noting that the 2017 vintage was somewhat challenging.
Guide Hachette des vins
Rated estate (2022 guide) Award-winning wines (This producer’s wines are regularly recognized by the guide)
About the estate:
Seventy-eight south-facing terraces make up this 70-hectare vineyard located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Founded in 1947 by André Brusset, then managed by his son Daniel, it is now run by his grandson Laurent. The estate produces wines across 5 AOCs and offers a total of 14 different cuvées. A sure bet for Gigondas and Cairanne.
Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Rated estate (2021 guide) Recommended (Wine producer recommended by Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate)
About the estate:
Laurent Brusset's estate now spans 70 hectares, based in the village of Cairanne but extending as far as the Ventoux and into the Dentelles hills above Gigondas. Founded by his grandfather in 1947, the winemaking here is modern yet balanced, with a mix of tanks, demi-muids, and barrels used, depending on the cuvée. Similarly, some wines are made entirely from destemmed grapes or entirely from whole clusters, with a blend used for others. "When you have high ripeness," explained Brusset, "it’s better to keep the stems." In entry-level wines, Brusset aims for drinkability, but in top-tier cuvées, he seeks complexity and aging potential. "2016 is a very fine vintage," said Brusset. "It has good balance and high acidity." In 2017, there is about half a degree more alcohol and lower acidity. His yields in Cairanne averaged just 20 hectoliters per hectare, the lowest he has ever seen. He therefore adjusted his extraction accordingly, doing no punch-downs and only very gentle pumping, to avoid extracting harsh tannins.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Rated Estate (2022 Guide) Tasting Review
About the estate:
A fan of full-bodied wines, he has opted for a more refined style. Located in Cairanne, the Brusset estate cultivates 70 hectares of vineyards across five appellations. For many years, Laurent Brusset produced full-bodied wines, seeking density through aggressive extraction during winemaking. Today, he works more with infusion to produce finer wines. His conversion to organic farming over the past two years has required considerable labor on the slopes he cultivates, which are difficult to mechanize. But for him, the crucial factor remains the optimal ripeness of the grapes at harvest. It is therefore no surprise that we were captivated by his beautiful wines, bursting with generous fruit.
James Suckling
Wine rated (2023 guide) 91/100
Rated winery (2022 guide) Recommended
About the wine:
A comforting aroma of ripe pears, white peaches, and honeysuckle. It is moderately full-bodied with a round, creamy texture on the palate and a fruity character. It is rich yet well-balanced, with abundant aromas that linger into the finish, reminiscent of bitter almonds. Enjoy now.