Domaine Brusset - Cairanne Vieilles Vignes 2024

Laurent, André’s grandson, who now runs the estate, produces a wide range of wines from nearly 70 plots, including terraced vineyards in the spectacular Dentelles de Montmirail. This fragmentation proves to be an advantage during the blending process. It’s worth noting that the 2017 vintage was somewhat turbulent.

Juicy, with good structure for a 2024, featuring ripe, succulent aromas of plum, blueberry, and blackberry, all framed by lively acidity and firm tannins. Good length and no excess alcohol—very well-balanced.

Seventy-eight south-facing terraces make up this 70-hectare vineyard located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Founded in 1947 by André Brusset, then managed by his son Daniel, it is now run by his grandson Laurent. The estate produces wines across 5 AOCs and offers a total of 14 different cuvées. A sure bet for Gigondas and Cairanne.

Laurent Brusset’s estate now spans 70 hectares, based in the village of Cairanne but extending to the Ventoux and into the Dentelles above Gigondas. Founded by his grandfather in 1947, winemaking here is modern yet balanced, with a mix of tanks, demi-muids, and barrels used, depending on the cuvée. Similarly, some wines are made entirely from destemmed grapes or entirely from whole clusters, while a blend of both is used for others. “When you have high ripeness,” explained Brusset, “it’s better to keep the stems.” In his entry-level wines, Brusset aims for drinkability, but in his top cuvées, he seeks complexity and aging potential. “2016 is a very fine vintage,” said Brusset. “It has good balance and high acidity.” In 2017, the alcohol content was about half a degree higher and the acidity lower. His yields in Cairanne averaged just 20 hectoliters per hectare—the lowest he’s ever seen. So he adjusted his extraction accordingly, doing no punch-downs and only very gentle pumping over, to avoid extracting harsh tannins.

A fan of full-bodied wines, he opted for an infusion-style winemaking approach. Located in Cairanne, the Brusset estate cultivates 70 hectares of vineyards across five appellations. For many years, Laurent Brusset produced full-bodied wines, seeking density through aggressive extraction during winemaking. Today, he focuses more on infusion to produce more refined wines. His transition to organic farming over the past two years has required considerable manual labor on the steep slopes he cultivates, which are difficult to mechanize. But for him, the crucial factor remains the optimal ripeness of the grapes at harvest. It’s no surprise, then, that we were captivated by his beautiful wines, bursting with generous fruit.

An enticing nose with aromas of blackberry, pepper, and crushed red berries. Juicy on the palate with lovely freshness and firm tannins that provide good structure. Lively and intense with a long finish.

Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, aged for one year—40% in two-year-old barrels and 60% in tanks—the 2024 Cairanne Vieilles Vignes offers aromas of blackberries, peppery garrigue, spices, and roasted meats. It is medium-bodied to full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, with ripe tannins and a lovely finish. I’m really enjoying it now, but it should continue to improve for another 10 to 12 years. Best enjoyed between 2026 and 2037.