Domaine Brusset - Cairanne Vieilles Vignes 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Laurent, André’s grandson, who now runs the estate, produces a wide range of wines from nearly 70 plots, including terraced vineyards in the spectacular Dentelles de Montmirail. This fragmentation proves to be an advantage during the blending process. It’s worth noting that the 2017 vintage was somewhat challenging.

Decanter

About the wine:

Aromas of black olive tapenade, olives, anchovies, and olive oil. The tannins are ripe and coat the palate; the acidity is well-integrated; the wine exhibits great purity; and the finish is long. This is a very pleasant and expressive Cairanne that transports you to Provence. Currently in the process of converting to organic farming.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

Seventy-eight south-facing terraces make up this 70-hectare vineyard located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Founded in 1947 by André Brusset, then managed by his son Daniel, it is now run by his grandson Laurent. The estate produces wines across 5 AOCs and offers a total of 14 different cuvées. A sure bet for Gigondas and Cairanne wines.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

Laurent Brusset’s estate now spans 70 hectares, centered in the village of Cairanne but extending to the Ventoux and into the Dentelles above Gigondas. Founded by his grandfather in 1947, winemaking here is modern yet balanced, with a mix of tanks, demi-muids, and barriques used depending on the cuvée. Similarly, some wines are made entirely from destemmed grapes or entirely from whole clusters, with a blend used for others. “When you have high ripeness,” explained Brusset, “it’s better to keep the stems.” In his entry-level wines, Brusset aims for drinkability, but in his top-tier cuvées, he seeks complexity and aging potential. “2016 is a very fine vintage,” said Brusset. “It has good balance and high acidity.” In 2017, the alcohol content was about half a degree higher and the acidity lower. His yields in Cairanne averaged just 20 hectoliters per hectare—the lowest he’s ever seen. So he adjusted his extraction accordingly, doing no punch-downs and only very gentle pumping over, to avoid extracting harsh tannins.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

A fan of full-bodied wines, he opted for an infusion-style winemaking process. Based in Cairanne, the Brusset estate cultivates 70 hectares of vineyards across five appellations. For many years, Laurent Brusset produced full-bodied wines, seeking density through aggressive extraction during winemaking. Today, he focuses more on infusion to produce more refined wines. His transition to organic farming over the past two years has required considerable manual labor on the steep slopes he cultivates, which are difficult to mechanize. But for him, the key factor remains the optimal ripeness of the grapes at harvest. It’s no surprise, then, that we were captivated by his beautiful wines, bursting with generous fruit.

Jancis Robinson

About the wine:

An expressive, rounded nose with notes of licorice and spices. Rich on the palate with notes of red berries, firm tannins, and an enticing layer of wild berries with hints of licorice. An appealing, well-structured finish.

James Suckling