Domaine Rieflé-Landmann - Grand Cru Steinert Pinot Gris 2016

The Rieflés—Jean-Claude and his sons Thomas and Paul—significantly expanded their vineyard when they acquired the plots formerly owned by Seppi Landmann; their vineyards now stretch from Pfaffenheim to Soultzmatt, at the far end of the Noble Valley. They practice viticulture with the utmost care, giving careful consideration to soil conservation, and this has been evident in the wines’ taste for the past few vintages. This is especially true now that Jean-Claude Rieflé has moved away from his experiments with natural wines, which had us more than intrigued a few years ago. Their terroir-driven wines express a gastronomic salinity.

Light and elegant, without too much body. A juicy white wine.

For the Rieflé family, it’s a family tradition: the first winemaker in the family appeared as early as 1830. Today, Thomas tends the vineyards, Paul handles sales, and Jean-Claude, the father, makes the wine. But it’s their daily collaboration that drives the estate forward. The 2011 vintage, marked by the acquisition of the famous Seppi Landmann estate, coincides with the start of a winemaking approach aimed at greater purity: more body and texture, but without excess sugar, and slightly longer aging on fine lees. New labeling also promises greater clarity in the range of wines offered. Finally, note the entry-level wines categorized by style, which may be blends: L’Éclat, a dry wine; L’Aplomb, round and full-bodied; and the aromatic L’Arabesque. L’Étoffe is the red.

On the nose, a hint of vanilla blends with notes of ripe pear. On the palate, it showcases rich, round, and ripe fruit—juicy pears and a hint of marzipan. But there’s also plenty of lemony freshness that brings together the fruit, oak, and all that juicy body into a concentrated, dry, and persistent wine. With the oak notes still fresh, a little more time in the bottle will do it good.