Château Thivin - Brouilly Reverdon 2023

Château Thivin has embarked on a renovation of its vineyard, with a focus on soil management. As part of its transition to organic farming, trellising on the steepest plots—such as La Chapelle—is now the norm. The lineup is extensive: fruit-forward whites and reds, as well as Côte de Brouilly wines (Sept Vignes, Griottes de Brulhié). The magnificent trio of Godefroy, Chapelle, and Zaccharie particularly impressed and moved us this year. A must-visit for wine lovers and a source of truly great wines.

Grown on soil composed of sand over pink granite, the 2023 Brouilly Reverdon offers vibrant aromas of crushed violet and peony petals, black cherries, and a hint of chocolatey spices. Medium- to full-bodied, it exhibits a concentration that is perfectly balanced with the wine’s structure, delivering a tart and lively fruit-forward profile. With its velvety texture supported by enveloping, powdery tannins, the wine leaves a lasting impression of joy and approachability.

This historic estate continues to rank among the benchmarks of classic Beaujolais—a wine that ages gracefully—and the 2019 vintage is a fine success here. As I wrote last year, the Geoffrays have banned herbicides and insecticides from their vineyards and are among the most conscientious growers in the appellation, working toward organic certification. In the cellar, winemaking follows traditional methods, with semi-carbonic maceration and aging generally in large oak casks—though some small cuvées see a bit of new oak. A staple at France’s finest restaurants—and on this writer’s table—all readers unfamiliar with these wines are strongly encouraged to seek them out. This year, the Brouilly Reverdon deserves a special mention, as it is particularly well-made.

This wine combines the appellation’s characteristic floral notes with wonderful aromas of dark wild berries, all on a velvety, medium-bodied palate. The interplay between supple tannins, juicy fruit, and moderate acidity makes this wine irresistible. The finish is long, fresh, and elegant. Made from organically grown grapes. Ready to drink or suitable for aging.