Château Giscours Margaux 2020 - 3ème Grand Cru Classé

This vast 300-hectare estate (80 hectares of which are under cultivation), located in Labarde, has had a turbulent history due to complicated family successions. The vineyards have remained in the Tari family since 1952, but the wine is crafted by a talented team under the direction of Alexander van Beek, inspired by the courage of the recently deceased Éric Albada Jelgersma. As the estate’s winemaker, he had restored it to its rightful level of excellence. Thanks to its terroir, this wine produces a particularly deep-colored and full-bodied Margaux with exceptional aging potential, whose character differs significantly from the wines of the appellation’s northern section. When at its best, it can rival Château Palmer, yet its prices remain more reasonable than those of its rival.

Giscours is one of the largest estates in the Médoc (100 ha), dominated by a monumental château built by the Counts of Pescatore—a family of bankers—to host Empress Eugénie when she visited her summer residence in Biarritz. Highly representative of a Médoc grand cru in terms of its buildings, Giscours is equally so for its beautiful terroir of deep gravel soils, which are remarkably uniform. This Margaux third growth also owns plots within the Haut-Médoc appellation for two labels: Ch. Duthil and the Haut-Médoc de Giscours.

 

The estate, leased by the Dutch Albada Jelgersma family, is managed by the talented Alexander Van Beek. Let’s set aside the legal disputes between the Tari family, who own the land, and the winemakers, and focus on the wines. Giscours benefits from a first-rate terroir, as evidenced by many older vintages. Like many others, it went through a brief slump during the 1990s and 2000s. A major restructuring of the vineyard has allowed the estate to bounce back, and the most recent vintages have returned to its full-bodied, intense style.

Barrel sample. Fragrant, ripe, and juicy, this full-bodied wine is already impressive. Its layered texture and black plum flavors show serious potential, with plenty of fruit and tannins and a generous finish.

The 2020 Giscours is just as compelling as it was in the barrel. Delicious notes of black cherry, plum, new leather, licorice, menthol, and mocha pleasantly round out the layers. This year’s wine contains a good amount of Merlot, which lends it a certain juiciness on the mid-palate and depth of texture, but it also boasts a robust supporting structure. The 2020 is both flamboyant and serious—a rather alluring combination, I must say. Tasted twice. 2028–2050

Fascinating aromas of blueberries, crushed stone, and blackcurrant. Very aromatic. Full-bodied with juicy, creamy, and intense tannins. Notes of slightly bitter and toasty citrus. Very robust with velvety tannins. It needs time to mellow. Best enjoyed after 2025 but has great aging potential.

As soon as you bring the glass to your nose, an imposing, dense, and deep aroma emerges—yet it remains fresh, marked by notes of raspberry and elderflower. On the palate, it is impressively full-bodied and expansive; it is at once powerful, velvety, and elegant, driven by impeccable freshness. The tannins display beautiful precision. The wine has a long finish—we’ll be talking about it again in 20 years.

I’ve never made a secret of my deep affection for Giscours, the wine I shared during my first meal at a restaurant with the woman who would become my wife. And then I recall the brilliant 1964, or the 1966, not to mention the 2000 or the 2005. And then there’s the 2020, which serves as a reminder that Giscours can be truly great… and not just in terms of size! Right from the start, the 2020 stands out for its freshness and floral nuances. It reveals aromas of iris, while notes of blackcurrant emerge after aeration. It has beautiful density on the palate, where the wine shines not only for its precision but also for its depth. The very compact tannins lend tremendous energy, complemented by a juicy, saline acidity. An energetic, powerful, well-rounded, and persistent Giscours. Everything comes together; everything blends seamlessly. Power and bitterness are essential qualities for this wine, which offers excellent aging potential and places Giscours exactly where it deserves to be: right at the forefront! 2027–2047

Richly colored, the wine opens with an intense floral bouquet, with additional notes of tobacco leaf, earth, red currant, black cherry, spices, and a cigar box. The wine is silky, vibrant, sensual, and long, with layers of ripe, sweet, and vibrant red and black fruits that build in intensity. The fruit is exceptionally pure, and the palate is well-balanced, with a seductive finish. Best enjoyed between 2026 and 2055.