Château Margaux 2022 - 1er Grand Cru Classé

This wine has never disappointed since its acquisition by the Mentzelopoulos family in 1977, and easily stands out among all the Margaux appellation wines. One will particularly admire the rare combination of finesse within density and freshness within opulence, without any hint of overripeness in the grapes, achieved with a very high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. About ten hectares planted with white grape varieties produce the Pavillon-Blanc, which in just a few years has become one of the three or four greatest dry white wines of Bordeaux, thanks to its rich body and the aromatic nobility of ideally ripe Sauvignon. The red wine requires extensive aging in the bottle.

From an exceptional vintage comes an exceptional wine, which draws all its power from small grapes of a concentration rarely seen in Margaux. The depth of color is impressive, as are the aromas that unfold slowly but surely: elegant aging notes (cedar, vanilla, smoke) add a subtle spice to a very fresh bouquet of red and black fruits, blackberry, rose, peony, and paprika. Powerful and concentrated from the very first sip, lined with tight, powdery tannins, and featuring a very minty, mouth-watering finish, the palate is simply monumental. And it displays astonishing structure despite the high ripeness of the grapes. It will stand the test of time. 2030–2055

A legendary estate at the end of a long avenue of plane trees. The majesty of the Neo-Palladian-style mansion (built in 1810)—which replaced an old fortified house once owned by prominent local families—has contributed to its fame. The estate was established in the late 16th century, and the vineyard was planted at the end of the following century by a relative of the Pontac family. Having passed through several owners over the centuries, it was acquired in 1977 by André Mentzelopoulos (Felix Potin). Drainage, replanting, an on-site cooperage… a major renovation of the estate was undertaken—in the vineyards, the winery, and the château—ushering the estate into the modern era. The new winery, designed by Norman Foster, was inaugurated in 2015. The 99-hectare vineyard also owes its quality to its exceptional terroir: a vast and superb limestone slab covered with fine gravel. Since 1980, it has been managed by Corinne Mentzelopoulos, André’s daughter, who was able to rely for more than thirty years on Paul Pontallier, who joined the château in 1983 and became director in 1990—a career that sadly came to a premature end in March 2016. Agricultural engineer Philippe Bascaules, who worked at the château for twenty years before heading a major California winery, succeeded him in 2017. This wine has never disappointed since its acquisition by the Mentzelopoulos family in 1977 and easily stands out as the finest in the entire Margaux appellation. One particularly admires the rare marriage of finesse within density and freshness within opulence—achieved without any hint of overripe grapes—resulting from a blend composed overwhelmingly of Cabernet Sauvignon. About ten hectares planted with white grape varieties produce the Pavillon-Blanc, which in just a few years has become one of the three or four greatest dry white wines of Bordeaux, thanks to its rich body and the aromatic nobility of perfectly ripe Sauvignon Blanc. The red wine requires extended bottle aging to fully express its noble character.

An iconic figure and director of Château Margaux since 1983, Paul Pontalier passed away the day after the 2015 harvest, and Philippe Bascaules now leads this estate, renowned for its unparalleled consistency. Tasting a great Château Margaux at its peak remains a unique experience, as the wine stands out within its appellation for its characteristic floral bouquet, the depth of its flavors, and the silkiness of its tannins. The estate owes these distinctive qualities to its superb terroir, composed mainly of gravel, which is so well-suited to the Cabernet varieties that form the heart of Margaux and which has remained virtually unchanged since its classification. Thanks to improvements in winemaking techniques and an even more rigorous selection process, the most recent vintages appear to be the most well-rounded yet. The estate also produces, under the name Pavillon Blanc, a wine that—thanks to stricter standards in the pursuit of optimal ripeness for the Sauvignon grapes—has become one of Bordeaux’s finest white wines.

Aromas of dark blueberries and powerfully rich tannins result in a dense, concentrated wine—perhaps the most concentrated ever. This wine’s impressive structure will allow it to age for many years. Best enjoyed starting in 2028. — Roger Voss

The 2022 Château Margaux Grand Vin is composed of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, representing just 40% of the total production. Aged in new oak barrels, it boasts a remarkable pH of 3.61—which is low for this vintage—and an alcohol content of 14.3%, with a level of tannins unmatched since 2010. It offers a new level of purity, elegance, and finesse that is second to none. It is quite simply a sensational Margaux destined to become legendary. Blackcurrant cream, blueberries, spring flowers, pencil shavings, and violets define the bouquet. The palate is full-bodied, with a complex profile, a harmonious texture, and perfect balance. Although it exhibits the vintage’s ripe, pure, and already accessible style, I wouldn’t be surprised to see it close up over the next 7 to 8 years, given its density and structure. It won’t reach its peak drinking window for another 15 to 20 years.  This should be one of those wines that ages gracefully over the next 50 to 75 years. 2040–2115

The nose unfolds gently, light as a butterfly, gently brushing the senses before suddenly revealing the full splendor of its colors and aromas. A concentrated heart of black and red fruits emerges, enhanced by a stony minerality and a captivating hint of black licorice. Then the rose bursts forth, glowing red. The palate unfolds like an infinitely tender embrace, enveloping the palate with its sensual texture and revealing its full depth and complexity. The tannins, of unparalleled opulence, provide a fine yet assertive structure—pure, like an Apollo whom no one can resist. 2028–2058

A lovely, elegant, airy, fragrant, delicate, and deep nose that offers intensity as well as a lovely maturity. It features notes of creamy blackberry, roasted strawberry, and, more subtly, violet, combined with hints of creamy red berries, as well as touches of blueberry, blue plum, and subtle hints of nutmeg, iris, dry gravel, and delicate, almost eucalyptus-like notes of spice. On the palate, it is pleasantly mineral, fresh, elegant, and indulgent, offering a crisp structure, acidity, lovely complexity, a certain brilliance in the fruit, suppleness, lovely energy, purity, and beautiful body. It combines fullness with finesse. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of creamy raspberry and, more subtly, fresh, pulpy purple plum, combined with hints of chocolate, cardamom, and toasted almond, as well as a subtle floral note, elegant roasted berries, and a subtle hint of sweet blond tobacco. The tannins are chalky and elegant. There is good texture on the finish and good length. Richness and intensity combined with delicacy, precision, and balance.

Flowers, flowers, and more flowers permeate the fragrance before revealing all the spices, along with notes of blackcurrant, black cherry, Cuban cigar, and blackberry. The palate is breathtaking. It’s so sexy and sensual it should be illegal! The fruit coats the mouth with an infinite number of layers of flavor that support the palate. The balance between the richness of the wine and its perfect intensity is almost surreal. The finish leaves the 60-second mark in the rearview mirror and keeps going. Grandeur in a glass. If you have the budget, this could be the best Château Margaux vintage ever produced—and that’s saying a lot! It’s a unique style for Château Margaux, highlighting its volume and concentration. But as you can see from my notes, I love it! This wine is composed of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The Petit Verdot was entirely allocated to the Pavillon Rouge. Its alcohol content of 14.6% is the highest in the estate’s history. Its pH is 3.61. Yields barely reached 25 hectoliters per hectare. The Grand Vin was made using only 40% of the harvest. The harvest took place from September 8 to 28, marking one of the earliest starts to a vintage in the estate’s history. Best enjoyed between 2030 and 2065.