Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion - Pessac-Léognan 2021

A small estate neighboring Haut-Brion, also spared from Pessac’s urbanization, Les Carmes Haut-Brion produces a very harmonious and subtle wine, in which Cabernet Franc, in particular, contributes its incomparable finesse. The estate was purchased in December 2010 by Patrice Pichet, head of the real estate group Patrimoniale Foncière Pichet. 2016 was the first vintage produced in the magnificent and boldly designed winery created by Philippe Starck and Luc Arsène-Henry. Patrice Pichet entrusted the management of the estate to the talented and perfectionist Guillaume Pouthier, who is elevating the property to the ranks of the very best.

Nestled within the Bordeaux metropolitan area, like its neighbor Haut-Brion, this 4.7-hectare vineyard owes its name to the Grands Carmes, its owners until the Revolution, which led to its sale as national property. A wine merchant purchased it and transferred ownership in 1840 to the Chantecaille family, who retained it until 2010, when it was acquired by the Pichet real estate group. In 2012, Patrice Pichet doubled the estate’s size—from 4.7 hectares to 10.3 hectares—by acquiring part of Château le Thil Comte Clary.

By cultivating a distinctive style, defined by bold winemaking techniques that give whole-cluster fermentation a far from negligible role, Les Carmes Haut-Brion has established itself over the past few vintages as one of the most original wines in the appellation—and indeed in all of Bordeaux. The fruit expression comes across as “infused”—a term that’s very much in vogue, but perfectly justified here—and the tannins are remarkably fine. It should also be noted that the estate, acquired by the Pichet family in 2010, is situated on a distinctive terroir adjacent to Haut-Brion—one that ripens even earlier—and is home to a significant proportion of very old vines, particularly Cabernet Franc. The modernization of the winemaking facilities has enabled the estate to achieve a string of successes in recent vintages, following a truly impressive upward trajectory that justifies the third star it earned two years ago.

The 2021 Carmes Haut-Brion is most likely the standout wine of the vintage. Vertical and explosive, the 2021 possesses breathtaking intensity and boundless energy. It is a distinguished wine that captivates all the senses. Tobacco, mocha, cedar, leather, dried herbs, menthol, licorice, and plum saturate the palate in a wine that dazzles from start to finish. The 2021 vintage was bottled in late September 2023—much later than most wines—and yet it is already so expressive today. It was magnificent in the barrel, and it is just as breathtaking today. Quite simply, Les Carmes is in a league of its own. Bravo! 2031–2061

Its texture and structure lend this wine elegance and uniqueness, with subtle notes of red fruit, chocolate, and bark, along with hints of clove and dried flowers. Notes of graphite. A medium-bodied to full-bodied wine with fine, slightly fleshy, and very well-integrated tannins, offering beautiful elegance and great precision. Juicy and crisp. A profusion of spices and earthy notes. Average age of the Cabernet Franc vines: 80 years. Blend: 45% whole clusters. Grape varieties: 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot. This wine still has potential, but it is already fascinating in its youth. Best enjoyed after 2027.

Its location protected it from severe frost, while the demanding growing conditions and the 75% Cabernet blend (Franc and Sauvignon) give it structure: abundant, very fine tannins that interact with aging in 70% new oak barrels, 20% large casks, and 10% amphorae. A sweet bouquet of flowers—rose and iris—followed by crisp blackberry and licorice; the juicy, elegant texture leads to a broad, mineral finish. With plenty of body and energy, this is truly in a class of its own.

With its subtlety, finesse, and perfection, the Carmes bouquet sets the tone right from the start! It must be said that it precedes a wine that already shone during the en primeur tastings, so the challenge is a formidable one. In addition to the varietal notes of Bouchet (iris, peonies), there is the freshness of the garrigue, dried herbs, and hints of elderberry. Just like the bouquet, the attack introduces the wine with obvious enthusiasm and serenity. The freshness, power, and charm are all there, along with a touch of oak—again, just like the bouquet. A true interplay between nose and palate unfolds. Not to the wine’s detriment—quite the contrary. The wine begins by reminding us, in its own way, that there are great wines in the 2021 vintage. (as it had already done in 2013, but in the case of 2021, in an even more concrete, more accomplished way.) It embraces the vintage’s distinctive characteristics; the tannins are tight but not harsh, providing a highly reliable foundation while ensuring a smooth touch. With aeration, the wine comes into its own; all the elements fall into place in an orderly, well-defined manner. One finds oneself wishing for a bit more depth, as the wine stirs aspirations of excellence, and then one realizes, nonetheless, that one is savoring one of the vintage’s greatest successes. It obviously needs a little time to age in order to fully develop, but even the impatient will find pleasure in it, because a great wine like this one is almost always good! 2027–2060

Very dark color with black and purple highlights. The nose is highly aromatic, refined, fruity, pure, subtle, and elegant. Hints of blackberry jelly, dark fruits, and licorice. Full-bodied from the first sip and immediately refined in texture, the wine shines with its velvety mouthfeel and richness on the mid-palate. It melts on the palate—juicy, nuanced, complex, deep, and noble—with superb structure that conveys a sense of sophistication, purity, and depth. A great, refined wine.