Château Malartic-Lagravière 2014 - Grand Cru Classé de Graves

A distinctive nose, distinctly smoky and toasty, with dominant notes of very ripe black fruit and hints of cocoa and peony; powerful on the palate, supported by a robust tannic structure, with pronounced fruit, minerality, and a long finish.

As perfectionist owners, the Bonnies have masterfully renovated the estate’s technical facilities, restored and expanded the vineyard, and—above all—transformed the wines. These Belgian wine enthusiasts purchased the estate from the Laurent-Perrier champagne house in 1990 and have brought it to its highest level. Their son, Jean-Jacques, has taken over, with the same attention to detail and commitment to excellence. The vineyard spans 53 hectares, including 7 hectares of white grape varieties, certified under sustainable agriculture practices. The second wine, formerly known as “Sillage-de-Malartic,” became “La Réserve de Malartic” in 2006. The reds, rigorously selected, possess astonishing strength and structure, which in no way detract from their innate finesse. The recent vintages of the whites are also remarkable: they have gained body and smoothness; they are racy, lively, and well-balanced. La Réserve de Malartic, in both white and red, proves to be the true “little brother” of the grand vin.

Its crystal-clear, brilliant, deep garnet color is complemented by a bouquet that blends aromas of black cherry—reflecting fully ripe grapes—with subtle hints of vanilla and smoke. The ripe black fruit is evident on the palate, which opens round and warm, supported by a tight tannic structure that remains firm on the finish. A distinctive Pessac-Léognan, combining a certain smoothness with the somewhat angular character of the vintage.

The 2014 Malartic-Lagravière displayed a rather sophisticated, very open bouquet, with uninhibited aromas of kirsch, crushed strawberries, iodine, and iris. The palate is round on the attack with supple tannins, and features acidity that is slightly lower than that of its peers while remaining well-balanced. The depth of this Malartic-Lagravière is impressive, with subtle notes of white pepper and sage on the finish. Even though it will be overshadowed by the 2015, it is a well-crafted Pessac-Léognan that has shown real boldness during its time in the barrel.

This is a truly beautiful wine—full-bodied, powerful, and generous, with a dense, tight, concentrated texture and rich fruitiness that reflects the grapes’ maturity. It is full-bodied and generous, with a lovely intensity of body. The oak still needs to integrate.

A perfect example of the appellation’s revival, Malartic-Lagravière has made spectacular progress since its acquisition in 1998 by Belgian entrepreneur Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie. With his son Jean-Jacques, his daughter Véronique, and his daughter-in-law Séverine, the estate has, in just a few years, made up for the ground it had lost during its time under the umbrella of the Champagne-based Laurent-Perrier group. The vineyard, superbly situated on a gravelly ridge behind the château, is impeccably maintained, and modern winemaking facilities have allowed the reds to gain in fullness and depth of body—particularly thanks to a vineyard that is maturing and developing deeper roots. The reds have never been better and rank among the most interesting in the appellation. The whites also exhibit a very refined, polished, and generous style. Careful observation of the aging process led the estate to invest in 350- and 500-liter wooden barrels for vinification and aging.