Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan rouge 2025 - Grand Cru Classé (Primeurs)

As perfectionist owners, the Bonnies have masterfully renovated the estate’s technical facilities, restored and expanded the vineyard, and—above all—transformed the wines. These Belgian wine enthusiasts purchased the estate from the Laurent-Perrier champagne house in 1990 and have brought it to its highest level. Their son, Jean-Jacques, has taken over, with the same attention to detail and commitment to excellence. The vineyard spans 53 hectares, including 7 hectares of white grape varieties, certified under sustainable agriculture practices. The second wine, formerly known as “Sillage-de-Malartic,” became “La Réserve de Malartic” in 2006. The reds, rigorously selected, possess astonishing strength and structure, which in no way detract from their innate finesse. The recent vintages of the whites are also remarkable: they have gained body and smoothness; they are racy, lively, and well-balanced. La Réserve de Malartic, in both white and red, proves to be the true “little brother” of the grand vin.

On the nose, round, ripe aromas of blackcurrant and wild blackberries. Supple and juicy, yet also smooth and velvety—almost creamy—with soft, powdery tannins and a hint of blueberry acidity that carries through from start to finish, giving the wine a lovely linear quality. A lovely combination of structure and approachability. Well-balanced, enticing, with a lively, juicy, and extremely fresh character—almost briny—and a lingering oyster-shell salinity. Charming. Delicate and long. Very good. A yield of 38 hl/ha. 0.5% Cabernet Franc rounds out the blend. 2030–2045

A perfect example of the appellation’s revival, Malartic-Lagravière has made spectacular progress since its acquisition in 1998 by Belgian entrepreneur Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie. With his son Jean-Jacques, his daughter Véronique, and his daughter-in-law Séverine, the estate has, in just a few years, made up for the ground it had lost during its time under the umbrella of the Champagne-based Laurent-Perrier group. The vineyard, superbly situated on a gravelly ridge behind the château, is impeccably maintained, and modern winemaking facilities have allowed the reds to gain in fullness and depth of body—particularly thanks to a vineyard that is maturing and developing deeper roots. The reds have never been better and rank among the most interesting in the appellation. The whites also exhibit a very refined, polished, and generous style. Careful observation of the aging process led the estate to invest in 350- and 500-liter wooden barrels for vinification and aging.

Malartic Lagravière 2025 is a dark and sumptuous wine. Aromas of black cherry, menthol, licorice, dried herbs, chocolate, and clove lend it a virile, almost somber intensity. Powerful tannins reinforce this impression. The 2025 will need time to fully develop, but it holds immense potential. Tasted three times. 2033–2050

The quality of the tannins comes through beautifully, with notes of blackcurrant, orange peel, crushed stones, and a hint of fresh herbs. This is a medium-bodied wine with a velvety texture and lovely finesse. Long, full-bodied, and succulent, with a hint of salt. A blend of 57.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 0.5% Cabernet Franc.

The Malartic-Lagravière bouquet stands out for its structure and overall balance, perfectly orchestrated by its many nuanced elements. The aging process blends with aromas of red berries and violets, followed by a hint of licorice and, finally, a touch of mint that highlights the wine’s freshness. The silky character of the attack leads into tannins that are equally elegant and velvety. They provide excellent structure, harmonizing beautifully with the wine’s freshness. A linear, flavorful, fresh, and persistent wine—a true success! 2028–2055