Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2025 - 1er Grand Cru Classé (Primeurs)

A grand cru founded in 1760 by frigate captain and privateer Jacques Kanon, who developed the monoculture of grapevines there; it was elevated to the rank of 1er grand cru classé B in 1954. The Fournier family, who settled here in 1919, sold the estate to the Chanel Group in 1996. Nestled against the medieval town, the estate is ideally situated to the south of the limestone plateau of Saint-Émilion. Beneath the surface lie vast cellars dug over the centuries to build Libourne and Bordeaux. Nicolas Audebert (who also manages Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux, owned by the same proprietors) oversees the vineyard: 34 hectares, 12 of which come from the Grand Cru Classé Matras, acquired in 2011, which now supplies the second wine, Croix Canon.

250 years ago, a privateer with a passion for the land had Château Canon built. Twenty-five years ago, two brothers with a keen eye for aesthetics and a love of beauty purchased the estate. The Wertheimers (Chanel), after acquiring Rauzan-Ségla in Margaux, turned their attention to the Right Bank two years later, taking over Canon in 1996, followed by its neighbor, Château Berliquet, in 2017. Through a series of restructuring efforts, and under the direction of Nicolas Audebert, Cabernet Franc has become a more significant component, now accounting for 30% of the vineyard’s plantings and the final blend. The vineyard’s perfect uniformity on the asterian limestone of the plateau offers refined consistency, set within the labyrinth of quarries that run underground alongside the vines. Regardless of the vintage, Canon defies convention: hot years do not detract from its splendor, as the limestone acts as a water reservoir. The wine’s signature slender profile has built its reputation.

The 2025 vintage was harvested between August 28 and September 18, with a yield of 40 hl/ha. It has a very pure and refined nose, with beautiful precision; while it is not yet as alluring as a 2015 or a 2019 at this stage, it is nonetheless very concentrated and marked by mineral notes. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with subtle tannins, quite savory, and a hint of crushed black pepper. Like its “sister” wine, the Berliquet, the limestone terroir comes through and seems to “tingle” on the finish. This may not be a wine that appeals to everyone, but I appreciate its uncompromising character, which reflects its place of origin. 2032–2055

There are wines that speak volumes, that capture your attention, that flaunt their qualities. Then there are the more cerebral wines that recount the course of the growing season, revealing their distinctive traits sparingly to highlight their complexity. And then there’s Canon. Its nonchalance, elegance, and serenity have a reassuring quality. It’s obviously not easy to handle, but clearly all you have to do is follow it where it wants to go—or rather, accompany it to where it knows it wants to be! The nuances that blend freshness and terroir create a remarkable harmony all on their own. Next, the wine enchants with an exceptional mouthfeel. It needs only to brush against the palate to win you over with unparalleled delicacy, with the precision of a master goldsmith, and with that astonishing ability to dazzle without overwhelming! There’s intensity, yes, but there’s so much silkiness, delicacy, power, and passion! The wine follows a linear progression; it unfolds in one fluid motion with breathtaking serenity, displaying a disconcerting ability to capture so much energy and power while delivering just as much finesse and depth. It’s a masterpiece. It’s enormous. Very moving. 2030–2065