Chanson Père et Fils - Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 2021

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Founded in 1750 by Simon Verry and acquired by the Bollinger Group in the late 1990s, the oldest of Beaune’s houses owns 45 hectares of vineyards located in the premier cru vineyards of both slopes. The house’s red wines are primarily made from purchased grapes, vinified by the house to maintain stylistic consistency with the estate. Brilliantly managed from a technical standpoint by Jean-Pierre Confuron (since 2001), this estate has become a model of viticulture, with the introduction of plowing, the elimination of soil amendments, and the adoption of organic viticulture. Chanson’s wines retain a very high proportion of stems during both white and red vinification. The guiding principle is balance within tension. The whites are transferred to barrels with as much lees as possible to ensure a reductive character throughout a 14- to 20-month aging period in barrels (20% new oak). The reds, whose Pinot ripeness is pushed to the optimum, retain a vibrant tannic and acidic structure and are adorned with fleshy fruit and underlying notes of sweet spices and licorice. These wines deserve a few years of patience in both styles.

Decanter

About the wine:

The fruit isn't particularly exuberant, but it is complex, with aromas of ripe plum and blackberry, enhanced by earthy, menthol, and wood-smoke notes. The texture is firmly tannic without being astringent, and the overall balance is robust and powerful while remaining elegant. The grapes come from a vineyard totaling 2 hectares, spread across 3 different plots. Each plot is cultivated and vinified separately. The grapes are fermented entirely as whole clusters before being aged in barrels.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Founded in 1750 and owned by Bollinger since 1999, this classic Beaune-based house has now fully established its identity and style. It rivals the best in the industry with its precise and pure wines, both white and red. Vincent Avenel has taken the reins of the house, succeeding Gilles de Courcel, to whom we owe its revitalization. A state-of-the-art winery and the expert guidance provided through June 2020 by Jean-Pierre Confuron—both in the vineyard and in winemaking—explain the clarity of expression across the estate’s broad range up to the 2019 vintage, a vintage in which we detect subtle aging notes in certain cuvées, though slightly less pronounced than in previous vintages. We will wait to taste the 2020s in bottle to judge whether this great estate is moving in the right direction with its new team.

Wine Enthusiast

About the wine:

Fresh and perfectly ripe on the nose, aromas of rhubarb, white strawberries, and black plums blend elegantly with red rose petals and crushed white peppercorns. This wine is full of lively vibrancy. The palate is dry, with black plums and white strawberries balanced by clove and cardamom. The mouth-watering acidity tames the youthful tannins, resulting in a lovely finish of cherry, white tea, and rose petals.

Jancis Robinson

About the wine:

Pale purple. A rather captivating aroma. The most elegant of Chanson’s 2021 Beaune Premiers Crus. A savory finish that is never harsh, following flattering, smooth fruit. Vigorous.

James Suckling

About the wine:

This Beaune 1er Cru offers a striking nose of mint, Amarena cherry, and licorice, with the smoky oak taking a back seat. The depth and tannic structure are impressive, though the latter will certainly need some time to fully mellow. For now, the finish is too velvety (as strange as that may sound), but this is a very young wine, with excellent fruit and a lovely savory component. Drink now, but it will be better starting in 2025.

Inside Burgundy - Jasper Morris