Champagne Leclerc Briant - Abyss Rosé 2019 avec étui

This Epernay-based brand, a pioneer of organic viticulture in Champagne and founded by the Leclerc family in 1872, experienced a renaissance under the leadership of Pascal Leclerc Briant in the 1990s and 2000s. The wine merchant was acquired in 2012 by an American couple, Mark Nunnelly and Denise Dupré, who are passionate about champagne and the French art of living. The house has now reached a brilliant maturity, complemented by the spectacular revival of the Hôtel Royal Champagne. All the champagnes, produced using biodynamic viticulture, possess great character and an intense, profound expression. Hervé Jestin, the cellar master, crafts wines that inspire our admiration.

The nose is quite surprising, with notes of salty red fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry). Sea foam, cuttlefish bones gathered from the foreshore, and a hint of fresh seaweed contribute to the intensely marine character, while earthy notes are also present with distinct aromas of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. On the palate, salinity dominates within a full-bodied, juicy texture. The finish remains salty right to the end, elevating this full-bodied wine, which pairs perfectly with roast pigeon or a vol-au-vent.

A salmon-pink color with subtle nuances: orange peel, mandarin, lovely floral notes, and dried flowers. A vibrant wine. The palate is graceful with superb, airy, and delicate bubbles. A quintessential meditation wine—elegant, with a lovely, refined texture. A substantial mousse.

Acquired in 2012 by a passionate American couple, this small estate has risen from the ashes thanks to wines with remarkable character. The vineyards are cultivated using biodynamic methods, and grapes are sourced from organic or biodynamic winemakers. The majority of the grapes come from exceptional terroirs (Mailly, Le Mesnil, Cumières...). Hervé Jestin has been working with the house for several years, bringing his well-known talent to the project. The “Abyss” cuvées—champagnes submerged at the bottom of the sea for 12 months off the coast of Ouessant Island—possess a distinct identity, as do the single-vineyard champagnes Château d’Avize and Les Mont Ferrés. Partial aging in oak, low dosage, and a balance of tension and vinosity are the hallmarks of this fine house.

A dazzling coppery-pink color. An overflowing effervescence, far more pronounced than that of the white Abyss tasted alongside it. This wine just wouldn’t stay still in the glass! And then a texture so rich that it caught me off guard! It was as if I were licking terracotta tiles. An atypical wine—more seductive than elegant—that strikes you with the power of its structure and its uncompromising aromas: iodine and iris, rosehip and sumac, tomato and tamarind. Best enjoyed with a meal (probably smoked beef or something similar).

A blend of 80% Chardonnay and the remainder Pinot Noir, this rosé was aged for 11 months underwater. The Champagne Millésime Abyss Brut Nature Rosé 2019 features the characteristic Abyss effervescence: bubbly and lively upon serving. Disgorged in July 2022 and submerged in October 2022, it has a pale orange hue with salmon undertones and is produced in a limited run of just 1,000 bottles per year. In the cellar, it was aged in stainless steel tanks and barrels. This vintage is even more profound, with supple notes of strawberries with cream, grapefruit, and mandarin. Its salinity and structure are longer and more persistent, unfolding on the palate with intensity and precision. Notes of red currants, anise, and rhubarb develop beautifully, bringing great complexity to this wine, which possesses a fantastic finish. It exudes a refined, vibrant, and electric energy—wild in its own way—and the effervescence only enhances the salty and spicy notes. It’s one of my favorite rosés; this cuvée gives the impression that it can age for at least two more decades and improve with time, and perhaps even beyond.