Champagne Louis Roederer - Collection 244 Brut

Founded in Reims in 1776, Roederer is still owned by the same family, represented today by Frédéric Rouzaud. In recent years, the estate has been a pioneer, being the first to gradually convert its vast 242-hectare vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming (126 hectares). Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, an eminent cellar master and agronomist, never ceases to impress with his intimate knowledge of every plot on the estate and the decisions he makes. “Cristal,” an exceptional prestige cuvée, comes exclusively from vines growing on chalky soils. The vintage wines and the core of the non-vintage brut—now called “Collection,” with a number indicating the base year of the blend—come from soils that are still calcareous but more clay-rich. The wines intended for the longest aging do not undergo malolactic fermentation, which requires harvesting the grapes at a high level of ripeness, often close to 11°. The current wines are certainly the most remarkable ever produced, including the astonishing red and white Coteaux-Champenois, along with the highly exclusive Camille cuvées.

A house founded in Reims in 1776. Louis Roederer became its owner in 1833, expanded the business, and acquired vineyards. In the 1870s, the house—which produced 2.5 million bottles—had Russia as its main client; there, Tsar Alexander II asked Louis Roederer to create a prestigious champagne for him: the famous Cristal cuvée was launched in 1876. With a vineyard of 240 hectares (comprising Premier Cru and Grand Cru plots) accounting for two-thirds of its supply, the company is still run by the founders’ descendants. The most recent, Frédéric Rouzaud, now heads a group that owns Deutz Champagnes and numerous prestigious wines, from the Médoc to Provence, and from Portugal to California.

A lovely Collection 244. The 2019 base wine offers a maturity and fullness on the palate that commands respect. Very few major houses can boast of producing a signature cuvée as full-bodied and deep as this one.

Here is one of Champagne’s finest examples. This family-owned estate is built on a vineyard comprising 420 plots, predominantly planted with Pinot Noir, 70% of which are classified as Grand Cru. Viticulture is a true priority here, particularly through the transition to biodynamic farming. Soil management practices are becoming widespread. Only a vineyard as exceptional as this can account for the unique level of harmony and concentration found in such large volumes. It is no coincidence that the cellar master, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, is not only an oenologist but also an agronomist—just like Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who built the current empire of Roederer’s great international vineyards. In a wise move, he entrusted the reins of the group early on to his son, Frédéric Rouzaud, the current president. Here, malolactic fermentation is only partial and varies (between 25% and 50%). The wines are aged on their lees in tanks and oak casks to give them body.

The first impression is as invigorating as a sea breeze. I love the interplay between the mirabelle plum, grapefruit, and lychee, the minty freshness, and the waxy character resulting from contact with the lees. It all comes together in a beautifully balanced palate that’s very well-structured, with lively acidity and a vibrant effervescence. The very salty finish keeps you coming back for more. This cuvée is composed of 41% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, and 26% Pinot Meunier. Of these grape varieties, 15% were fermented in oak barrels and 85% in stainless steel. The final blend contains 36% perpetual reserve wines and 10% reserve wines from the 2012–2018 vintages aged in oak. The dosage is 7 g/l. Ready to drink or for aging.

With a pale silver and straw-colored hue, the Champagne Collection 244 NV is based on the 2019 vintage, with 42% Chardonnay, 26% Meunier, and the remainder Pinot Noir. Expressive upon opening, it is fresh with a lovely floral aroma and reveals pure notes of red berries, cherry, fresh peach, and a lovely, crisp hint of primary fruit. The mousse is fine and refined, and the palate is supple and inviting. Medium-bodied and elegant, with a ripe core, it features a delicate salinity that balances its freshness and an appealing, slightly tannic texture, while maintaining a refined and precise profile. Accessible and fantastic to drink now, it will be exciting to see how it evolves over time. It continues to offer exceptional value for the price. Best enjoyed between 2024 and 2036. The dosage has been reduced by one gram compared to the previous vintage, to 7 grams per liter.