Domaine de Montbourgeau - Étoile Vin de Paille 2016 (liquoreux)

Nicole Deriaux has a soft spot for Chardonnay—preferably with a distinct character—which accounts for nearly 70% of her vineyard (10 hectares in total within the Étoile appellation, including 2 hectares of Savagnin). Her family has owned the estate since 1920, and she has been at the helm for over 25 years, now supported by her sons César and Baptiste. All her wines showcase the Jura in the most beautiful and delicate way possible, with briny notes, subtle hints of yeast, and soon an interesting chardonnay ouillé (2017 vintage). 2019 is expected to mark the transition to organic farming. Montbourgeau shines at the pinnacle of the Étoile appellation.

In 1920, Victor Gros, Nicole Deriaux’s grandfather, settled in Montbourgeau. Her father, Jean Gros, further cemented the estate’s reputation. Near the 11 hectares of vineyards lies an idyllic setting, bordered by a row of linden trees leading to the wine cellars that surround the family home. A leading estate in the L’Étoile appellation.

Still relatively unknown, the Étoile appellation can produce wines of great finesse, provided the producer demonstrates tact and sensitivity. Nicole Deriaux, assisted by her son César, undoubtedly possesses these qualities. We particularly appreciate the estate’s style—free of frills and artifice—which offers straightforward, intense wines that, without any nostalgia, embody the finest Jura tradition. The estate’s wines achieve superb expressiveness; the Cuvée Spéciale—a Chardonnay aged for a long time under a veil—and the vin jaune are the most consistently excellent. The new Montangis cuvée appears to be cut from the same cloth. This careful and discreet work deserves greater recognition and the full attention of Jura enthusiasts. The first star is firmly secured.