Domaine de Montbourgeau - Cuvée Spéciale 2015

Bettane & Desseauve

About the wine:

A well-crafted “voile” wine, with a powerful profile marked by its aging, yet featuring a decidedly modern style that preserves the fruit’s freshness (pear, citrus). A savory, slightly salty finish.

About the estate:

Nicole Deriaux has a soft spot for Chardonnay—preferably with a distinct character—which accounts for nearly 70% of her vineyard (a total of 10 hectares in the Étoile appellation, including 2 hectares of Savagnin). Her family has been on the estate since 1920, and she has been at the helm for over 25 years, now supported by her sons César and Baptiste. All her wines showcase the Jura in the most beautiful and delicate way, with briny notes, subtle hints of yeast, and soon an interesting chardonnay ouillé (2017 vintage). 2019 is expected to mark the transition to organic farming. Montbourgeau shines at the pinnacle of Étoile.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

In 1920, Victor Gros, Nicole Deriaux’s grandfather, settled in Montbourgeau. Her father, Jean Gros, further established the estate’s reputation. Near the 11 hectares of vineyards lies an idyllic setting, bordered by a row of lime trees leading to the cellars that surround the family home. A leading estate in the L'Étoile appellation.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

I tasted the 2015 Cuvée Spéciale—a Chardonnay aged for an extended period under a veil—from an exceptional magnum bottle. I was able to compare it with the 2014, 2010, 2005, 1995, and 1985 vintages of the same cuvée. The 2015 shows a bit more maturity and development than the 2014. It has a round palate, with a soft, silky, and smooth texture, featuring the floral flavors and roundness typical of Chardonnay in a ripe and powerful vintage.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Colorful, it benefits from the richness of the vintage.

About the estate:

Still relatively unknown, the Étoile appellation can produce wines of great finesse, provided the producer demonstrates tact and sensitivity. Nicole Deriaux, assisted by her son César, undoubtedly possesses these qualities. We particularly appreciate the estate’s style—unpretentious and unadorned—offering straightforward, intense wines that, without any nostalgia, stand firmly in the best Jura tradition. The estate’s cuvées achieve superb expressiveness; the Cuvée Spéciale, a Chardonnay aged for a long time under a veil, and the vin jaune are the most consistently excellent. The new Montangis cuvée appears to be of the same caliber. This careful and discreet work deserves greater recognition and the full attention of Jura aficionados. The first star is firmly secured.