La Croix Gratiot - Picpoul de Pinet Bréchallune 2025

This 35-hectare estate in Montagnac is known for its Picpoul de Pinet wines. Yves and his daughter Anaïs run it using biodynamic methods and are experimenting with new containers, including terracotta, ceramic, and stoneware dolias. Don’t miss Bréchallune, a Picpoul aged slowly on its lees that breaks from the appellation’s classic style, or Le Chant des Dolia, a stunning Languedoc that far exceeds the standard for this regional appellation.

Originally focused on melon cultivation and supplying grapes to a cooperative winery, the estate took a major turn in 2004 with the creation of its own winemaking facility. In 2009, Anaïs Ricôme joined her father, Yves, at the helm of a 35-hectare organic vineyard, created a new line of wines, and expanded sales. A sure bet for both white and red wines.

Anaïs Ricôme is the leading name in Picpoul de Pinet, producing wines of great purity from this beautiful clay-limestone terroir. The appellation is home to some of the Languedoc’s greatest white wines—characterized by the influence of the marine trade winds, crisp and briny—made from the Picpoul grape variety. After studying viticulture and oenology and gaining experience at a New Zealand vineyard, her father, Yves, offered her the opportunity to take over this estate near Marseillan. Shortly after settling in, she made some drastic decisions: reducing the vineyard’s size to better control quality, converting the estate to organic farming, and adopting certain biodynamic practices. Aging is very light, with a focus on stainless steel, stoneware, and old oak casks. The result is brilliant, well-defined, and energetic wines of great precision. Quality is once again the hallmark of these wines.

Here’s my winemaker of the day. Yet another exciting wine. Dry yet honeyed, with the intensity and bitterness of marmalade. Candied citrus peel, star anise. Curves and swirls, yet always well-defined. Long on the palate. Vibrant. Exceptional. Congratulations to the importer, Liberty Wines, for discovering this young winemaker, Anaïs Ricôme (who spent some time in New Zealand making wine before returning to the family estate). She’s elevating Picpoul de Pinet to the status of a great wine!