Frédéric Mabileau - Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse 2017

Frédéric Mabileau was one of the Loire Valley’s most iconic figures; he tragically passed away on Monday, August 31, in a microlight accident. He had taken over the entire 27 hectares of the family estate in 2003, with the help of his son, and transitioned the vineyard to organic farming. Here, two types of soil predominate: clay-siliceous soils with a calcareous tendency, which produce the most taut and structured wines; and lower down, on the terrace overlooking the former bed of the Loire River, siliceous, sandy, or stony soils—known as “graviers”—where the vines thrive, yielding a fruitier and more indulgent wine. The Saint-Nicolas wines currently for sale embody the delicacy of the appellation’s wines: those from gravel and clay-loam soils offer a full-bodied yet silky texture, well-defined tannins, and straightforward fruitiness. The Rouillières wines charm with their juiciness and a very floral finish. For around fifteen euros, the Bourgueil Racines, grown on clay-gravel soil, produces one of the most well-rounded wines in its appellation. The Chenin-des-Rouillères showcases a charming side of the grape variety without compromising its character. It is now joined by Chenin-du-Puy, from the Saumur region, in the same vein. This is one of the top priorities at Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil!

A leading figure in the Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas regions since he established his business in 1991, Frédéric Mabileau built up a 35-hectare estate that has been farmed organically since 2007 and biodynamically since 2012. Following his accidental death in 2020, his son, Remy, took over the business. Charly, his other son, opened “Chez Odette,” a restaurant dedicated to local and seasonal cuisine, in the estate’s courtyard.

When tasted alongside the 2015 vintage, the 2017 Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil L'Eclipse displays greater clarity and purity of fruit, with more refined and rounded tannins, although its natural chalky texture is still present. It is interesting to note that this vintage was produced using whole-cluster fermentation, and while one might expect the stems to be more pronounced, the tannins remain refined. There is a hint of medicinal character that could develop in the bottle, but for now, it is restrained and, rather than detracting from the wine, adds an extra layer of complexity. Lovely freshness.