Jean Foillard - Morgon Athanor 2015

The Morgon appellation is very fortunate to have so many leading estates among its ranks. Jean and Agnès Foillard offer a particularly fruity and fresh expression of the wine. The Fleurie and the 3.14 cuvée are always released slightly later than the Morgons. While their approach to work in the vineyards and the cellar is admirable, one cannot help but mention the slight animal notes that mar certain vintages, sometimes causing them to lose all the potential of their terroir. This is a frustrating observation, as the structure of the wines clearly reveals their exceptional quality.

Named after an alchemical furnace, the unique 2015 Morgon Athanor shares the same origins as the estate’s 3.14 cuvée, but it was so unusually ripe—reaching a full 15.4% alcohol—that the Foillard family felt it deserved a different name. Offering a deep bouquet of cherries, wild plums, dark chocolate, and fruit compote, it is full-bodied, rich, and powerful, with a broad, muscular framework of powdery tannins, a generous core of fruit, and a long finish. Although it is certainly not light, it is perfectly balanced on the palate despite its extreme style. It will be interesting to see how it evolves.

 

Jean Foillard is one of the leading names in the Beaujolais region. A series of setbacks had led to his removal from the Green Guide; it was only natural to reinstate him. Known for his “natural” style, Jean cut his teeth at the family estate beginning in 1981. With a steady hand, he has maintained a free-spirited yet disciplined style, resulting in wines that are consistently excellent and deeply complex. Organic viticulture, sulfur-free winemaking, whole-cluster harvesting, and barrel aging are not the only keys to success, of course. For producing these “free-spirited” yet precise wines, meticulous monitoring under a microscope is one of the fundamental factors. Jean Foillard is gradually passing the torch to his son, Alex. After traveling the world and acquiring a few hectares of vineyards in his own name, Alex is gradually taking the reins with the determination to carry on his father’s legacy while infusing it with his own sensibility. There is a noticeable progression in the most recent vintages tasted, which suggests the potential for a second star.