Domaine Jean Foillard - Morgon Cuvée Côte du Py 2023

The Morgon appellation is very fortunate to have so many leading estates among its ranks. Jean and Agnès Foillard offer a particularly fruity and fresh expression of the wine. The Fleurie and the 3.14 cuvée are always released slightly later than the Morgons. While their approach to work in the vineyards and the cellar is admirable, one cannot help but mention the slight animal notes that mar certain vintages, sometimes causing them to lose all the potential of their terroir. This is a frustrating observation, as the structure of the wines clearly reveals their exceptional quality.

 

Jean Foillard is one of the leading names in the Beaujolais region. A series of setbacks had led to his removal from the Green Guide; it was only natural to reinstate him. Known for his “natural” style, Jean cut his teeth at the family estate beginning in 1981. With a steady hand, he has maintained a free-spirited yet disciplined style, resulting in wines that are consistently excellent and deeply complex. Organic viticulture, sulfur-free winemaking, whole-cluster harvesting, and barrel aging are not the only keys to success, of course. For producing these “free-spirited” yet precise wines, meticulous monitoring under a microscope is one of the fundamental factors. Jean Foillard is gradually passing the torch to his son, Alex. After traveling the world and acquiring a few hectares of vineyards in his own name, Alex is gradually taking the reins with the determination to carry on his father’s legacy while infusing it with his own sensibility. There is a noticeable progression in the most recent vintages tasted, which suggests the potential for a second star.

The 2023 Morgon Côte du Py comes from several plots of granitic and schist soils, many of which are planted with century-old vines. It offers a wonderful, highly complex bouquet with exquisite definition: crushed stone notes filter through the black fruit, accompanied by hints of ash and subtle mineral aromas. The savory and lively palate features subtle tannins, a hint of acidity, and a touch of crushed black pepper leading into the long finish. It’s one of the best Morgons you can buy… but that’s nothing new.