Domaine Guillot-Broux - Mâcon-Cruzille Les Geniévrières 2020

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

I admit it took me a while to understand the wines of Domaine Guillot-Broux. These are tight, concentrated whites, framed by a chalky dry extract, produced from low yields and intelligent pressing, which take their time to evolve in the cellar. They are a far cry from the stereotype of the northern Mâconnais, which is honeyed, easy, and generous, but when you visit the vineyards, you understand. Rocky, sloping, and enclosed land on the edge of the forest, some of which has recently been reclaimed from encroachment, is planted with old vines of Chardonnay, Gamay, and Pinot Noir, and has never seen chemical agriculture. Of course, opening old bottles also helps to give meaning to these wines: complex, mineral and sapid, it is clear that 20 years is the minimum rather than the maximum at this address. But the rewards of patience, as so often, are considerable; and once you get to know them, it is difficult to argue that they are not among the finest examples in the region. As I have already written, Emmanuel Guillot's grapes are harvested by hand, with the whites being pressed directly into barrels and the reds fermented in small vats, often with more than a small amount of whole bunches included. With the 2019 vintage, taking advantage of the market disruption caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, Guillot chose to extend the aging process: most of his whites, having spent a year in barrels, saw an additional six months in vats. Whether or not this is due to the inherent quality of the vintage, or the fact that these six extra months really seem to help these structured wines to develop and relax, the 2019s are the most impressive young wines I have tasted to date at this address.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

The Guillot-Broux estate, certified organic, is one of the most consistent in the Mâcon region. The old vines, perfectly maintained, give the wines a decidedly classic style. The estate relies on ripe grapes and avoids any sophisticated oak aging. Patrice and Emmanuel are thus continuing their father's work and preserving its spirit. We are very satisfied with their whites, which are always well-controlled and crystal clear. The 2019 reds were less successful this year, with the exception of the Gamay Beaumont.