Domaine Guillot-Broux - Mâcon-Cruzille Les Geniévrières 2020

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

I must admit it took me a while to understand the wines of Domaine Guillot-Broux. These are tight, concentrated whites, defined by a chalky dry extract, produced from low yields and careful pressing, which take their time to develop in the cellar. This is a far cry from the stereotype of the northern Mâconnais—honeyed, easy-drinking, and generous—but when you visit the vineyards, it all makes sense. Rocky, steep, and secluded plots on the edge of the forest—some recently reclaimed from encroachment—are planted with old vines of Chardonnay, Gamay, and Pinot Noir, and they have never seen chemical agriculture. Of course, opening old bottles also helps give these wines their meaning: complex, mineral, and savory, it’s clear that 20 years is the minimum rather than the maximum at this estate. But the rewards of patience, as is so often the case, are considerable; and once you get to know them, it’s hard to deny that they rank among the region’s finest examples. As I have already written, Emmanuel Guillot’s grapes are harvested by hand, with the whites pressed directly into barrels and the reds fermented in small vats, often with more than a small amount of whole clusters included. With the 2019 vintage, taking advantage of the market disruption caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, Guillot chose to extend the aging process: thus, most of his whites, having spent a year in barrels, saw an additional six months in tanks. Whether due to the inherent quality of the vintage or the fact that these extra six months seem to genuinely help these structured wines fill out and relax, the 2019s are the most impressive young wines I have tasted to date from this estate,

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

The Guillot-Broux estate, certified organic, is one of the most consistent in the Mâcon region. The old vines, meticulously tended, give the wines a decidedly classic style. The estate relies on fully ripe grapes and avoids any sophisticated oak aging. Patrice and Emmanuel thus carry on their father’s legacy and preserve its spirit. We are very pleased with their whites, which are always well-balanced and crystal-clear. The 2019 reds were less successful this year, with the exception of the Gamay Beaumont.