Domaine Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

This 18-hectare estate, nestled in the heart of the village of Fuissé, was acquired in 2008 by the Jadot winery, which had the brilliant idea of carrying on its tradition and history by placing a woman at its helm. Following in the footsteps of Jeanne and Colette Ferret, who left their mark on the appellation, it is the passionate and sensitive Audrey Braccini—driven by her commitment to the vineyards—who has steered the estate toward organic viticulture, with the transition beginning in 2020. All the wines produced are vegan. She also freely carries on the Ferret spirit—which aligns perfectly with the Jadot style—by focusing on the wines’ liveliness through partial malolactic fermentation and skillfully managed aging. A wonderful estate, where mastery and excellence are the key strengths. Following a remarkable 2019 vintage, with a Tournant-de-Pouilly at the pinnacle of an exemplary range, 2020 sees the Ménétrières edging it out by a narrow margin. The rest of the range is not far behind.

Decanter

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

In 2008, Louis Jadot acquired Domaine JA Ferret, one of the historic benchmarks of Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy’s great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines harvested late and aged on lees in oak barrels. Many of the wines produced under her stewardship—and that of her daughter—are still enjoyable today. Today, the style has changed; yet the wines of Domaine Ferret remain equally worthy of attention. Winemaker Audrey Braccini produces fresher, brighter, and earlier-harvested interpretations of Pouilly-Fuissé, and they are beautifully balanced, intense, and engaging, with clear distinctions by vineyard site. The use of new barrels remains decidedly minimal here, although the wines undergo longer aging on lees.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

The Pouilly-Fuissé is quite full-bodied, rich, and ripe, with excellent acidity.

About the estate:

The 2023 vintage marks an important year for this iconic estate in the region: it is the first year of organic certification and the first vintage produced under the guidance of Clément Robinet, who brings extensive experience from the United States and his time with the Comtes Lafon in Meursault and the Mâconnais. He has just taken over from Audrey Braccini, renowned for her winemaking talent, who has been at the helm since the estate’s acquisition in 2008 by Louis Jadot and has successfully evolved cultivation practices through soil management. The majority of the vineyards are located in Fuissé, complemented by beautiful plots in Vergisson. Since the 2020 vintage, the Premier Cru classification has applied to nearly all of the estate’s Fuissé wines, with the exception of Clos de Prouges. Old vines and low yields contribute to the exceptional quality of the wines, which age admirably but are often austere in their youth. We sense a shift toward more precise and transparent aging styles that are deeply respectful of the terroirs.

Burghound

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé, a blend from 50 plots around Fuissé—about half of which are on limestone soils—aged in barrels for 18 months (ten months in barrels and eight in stainless steel tanks), offers a clean and precise bouquet. While not exceptionally complex, it exhibits a certain tension. The palate is well-balanced, with a slightly tart attack, good body, notes of orange peel and subtle spicy notes, as well as a lovely savory finish. A simply delicious Pouilly-Fuissé. 2025–2031

Tim Atkin