Domaine Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the domain :

This 18-hectare estate, nestled in the heart of the village of Fuissé, was acquired in 2008 by Maison Jadot, who had the brilliant idea of perpetuating its tradition and history by placing a woman at its head. Following in the footsteps of Jeanne and Colette Ferret, who left their mark on the appellation, it is the moving and sensitive Audrey Braccini, driven by her mission of loyalty to the climats, who has led the estate to convert to organic viticulture from 2020. All her wines are vegan. She also freely perpetuates the Ferret spirit, very much in keeping with the Jadot style, with a focus on liveliness through partial malolactic fermentation and skilful ageing. A marvellous address, where mastery and excellence are the major assets. After a remarkable 2019 with a tournant-de-pouilly at the top of an exemplary range, 2020 sees Les Ménétrières just ahead of it. The rest of the range is not far behind.

Decanter

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the domain :

In 2008, Louis Jadot acquired Domaine JA Ferret, one of the historic benchmarks for Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Madame Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy's great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines, harvested late and aged on lees in oak barrels. Many of the wines produced under her tenure - and that of her daughter - are still drinking well today. Today, the style has changed; but Domaine Ferret wines are just as worthy of attention. Winemaker Audrey Braccini produces fresher, brighter, earlier-harvested interpretations of Pouilly-Fuissé, and they are beautifully balanced, intense and engaging, clearly differentiated by site. The presence of new barrels remains decidedly minimal at this address, although the wines do see longer aging on lees.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Pouilly-Fuissé is full-bodied, ample and ripe, with excellent acidity.

About the domain :

The 2023 vintage is an important one for this emblematic estate in the region: the first year of organic certification and the first vintage signed by Clément Robinet, with a wealth of experience in the United States and at Comtes Lafon in Meursault and Mâconnais. He has just taken over from Audrey Braccini, renowned for her talent as a winemaker, who has been in charge since the estate was acquired by Louis Jadot in 2008, and who has succeeded in developing cultivation practices by working the soil. Most of the vines come from Fuissé, supplemented by some fine plots in Vergisson. Since the 2020 vintage, almost all the estate's Fuissés have been classified as Premier Cru, with the exception of Clos de Prouges. Aged vines and low yields contribute to the exceptional quality of these wines, which still age admirably but are often austere in their youth. We're beginning to see a shift towards more precise, transparent ageing, with great respect for the terroir.

Burghound

Vinous

About the wine:

Pouilly-Fuissé 2023, a blend of 50 parcels around Fuissé, about half of them on limestone soils, aged for 18 months (ten months in barrel and eight in stainless steel vats), has a clean, precise bouquet. Without being exceptionally complex, it exudes a certain tension. The palate is well-balanced, with a slightly acid attack, good weight, notes of orange peel and light spiciness, and a lovely sapidity on the finish. A simply delicious Pouilly-Fuissé. 2025-2031

Tim Atkin