Domaine Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

This 18-hectare estate, nestled in the heart of the village of Fuissé, was purchased in 2008 by the Jadot family, who had the brilliant idea of continuing its tradition and history by placing a woman at its helm. Following in the footsteps of Jeanne and Colette Ferret, who left their mark on the appellation, the moving and sensitive Audrey Braccini, driven by her mission to remain faithful to the terroir, has led the estate towards organic viticulture, with the conversion set to begin in 2020. All the wines produced are vegan. She also freely perpetuates the Ferret spirit, which is very consistent with the Jadot style, working on the liveliness of the wines through partial malolactic fermentation and skillful aging. A wonderful address, where mastery and excellence are the major assets. After remarkable 2019 wines, with a Tournant-de-Pouilly at the top of an exemplary range, 2020 sees Les Ménétrières just edging ahead. The rest of the range is not far behind.

Decanter

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

In 2008, Louis Jadot acquired Domaine JA Ferret, one of the historic benchmarks for Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Madame Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy's great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines, harvested late and aged on lees in oak barrels. Many of the wines produced under her stewardship—and that of her daughter—are still drinking well today. Today, the style has changed, but the wines of Domaine Ferret are just as worthy of attention. Winemaker Audrey Braccini produces fresher, brighter, earlier-harvested interpretations of Pouilly-Fuissé, and they are beautifully balanced, intense, and engaging, clearly differentiated by site. The use of new barrels remains decidedly minimal at this address, although the wines see longer aging on lees.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About wine:

Pouilly-Fuissé is quite full-bodied, ample, and ripe, with excellent acidity.

About the estate:

The 2023 vintage is an important year for this iconic estate in the region: it marks the first year of organic certification and the first vintage produced by Clément Robinet, who brings with him a wealth of experience gained in the United States and at Comtes Lafon in Meursault and Mâconnais. He has just taken over from Audrey Braccini, renowned for her talent as a winemaker, who had been in charge since the estate was acquired by Louis Jadot in 2008 and successfully developed new cultivation practices through soil management. Most of the vines are located in Fuissé, supplemented by some beautiful plots in Vergisson. Since the 2020 vintage, almost all of the estate's Fuissé wines have been classified as premier cru, with the exception of Clos de Prouges. Old vines and low yields contribute to the exceptional quality of the wines, which always age beautifully but are often austere in their youth. We sense a shift towards more precise and transparent aging, with great respect for the terroirs.

Burghound

Vinous

About wine:

The Pouilly-Fuissé 2023, a blend of 50 plots around Fuissé, about half of which are on limestone soils, aged in barrels for 18 months (ten months in barrels and eight in stainless steel vats), has a clean and precise bouquet. Without being exceptionally complex, it exudes a certain tension. The palate is well-balanced, with a slightly tart attack, good weight, notes of orange peel and light spice, and a lovely savory finish. A simply delicious Pouilly-Fuissé. 2025-2031

Tim Atkin