Domaine Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges 2022

This 18-hectare estate, nestled in the heart of the village of Fuissé, was acquired in 2008 by the Jadot winery, which had the brilliant idea of carrying on its tradition and history by placing a woman at its helm. Following in the footsteps of Jeanne and Colette Ferret, who left their mark on the appellation, it is the inspiring and sensitive Audrey Braccini—driven by her commitment to the vineyards—who has guided the estate toward organic viticulture, with the transition beginning in 2020. All the wines produced are vegan. She also freely carries on the Ferret spirit—which aligns perfectly with the Jadot style—by focusing on the wines’ liveliness through partial malolactic fermentation and skillfully managed aging. A wonderful estate, where mastery and excellence are the key strengths. After a remarkable 2019 vintage, with a Tournant-de-Pouilly at the pinnacle of an exemplary lineup, 2020 sees the Ménétrières edge it out by a hair. The rest of the lineup isn’t far behind.

This vineyard, located in the village of Fuissé, produced a wine in 2022 with wonderful concentration, featuring aromas of passion fruit and pomelo, along with notes of hazelnut and spices. The texture is dense yet not heavy; well-integrated oak aromas linger on the palate. The grapes come from a two-hectare plot purchased by Jadot following the acquisition of Ferret; although it was excluded from Premier Cru status, its flavor is, in my opinion, of equivalent quality. 2025–2035

In 2008, Louis Jadot acquired Domaine JA Ferret, one of the historic landmarks of Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy’s great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines made from late-harvested grapes and aged on lees in oak barrels. Many of the wines produced under her leadership—and that of her daughter—are still enjoyable today. Today, the style has changed; yet the wines of Domaine Ferret remain just as worthy of attention. Winemaker Audrey Braccini produces fresher, brighter, and earlier-harvested interpretations of Pouilly-Fuissé, which are beautifully balanced, intense, and engaging, with each vineyard site clearly distinguished. The use of new oak remains decidedly minimal here, although the wines undergo a longer aging period on the lees.

The Clos des Prouges offers aromas of toasted sesame, bergamot, and mint; it is both generous and restrained, with a fairly taut finish that is long and fresh.

The 2023 vintage marks an important year for this iconic estate in the region: it is the first year of organic certification and the first vintage produced under the guidance of Clément Robinet, who brings extensive experience from the United States and his time with the Comtes Lafon in Meursault and the Mâconnais. He has just taken over from Audrey Braccini, renowned for her talent as a winemaker, who had been at the helm since the estate’s acquisition in 2008 by Louis Jadot and successfully evolved viticultural practices through soil management. The majority of the vineyards are located in Fuissé, complemented by beautiful plots in Vergisson. Since the 2020 vintage, nearly all of the estate’s Fuissé wines have been classified as Premier Cru, with the exception of the Clos de Prouges. Old vines and low yields contribute to the exceptional quality of the wines, which always age admirably but are often austere in their youth. We sense a shift toward more precise and transparent aging practices that are deeply respectful of the terroirs.

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Prouges is an atypical wine that is not classified as a Premier Cru due to a lack of historical records, according to the INAO, although the estate treats it as such. It offers a lovely nose of red apples, almonds, and crushed stone, with hints of praline in the background. Well-defined. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with a fairly concentrated attack. Here again, it leans toward the richer style of Pouilly-Fuissé with impressive depth on the finish, though I wish it had a bit more liveliness. It is nonetheless delicious. 2025–2035