Domaine du Roc des Boutires - En Bertilionne 2022

The Parinet family, owners of Château du Moulin-à-Vent, acquired this 4.2-hectare estate in the village of Pouilly in 2016. Management—from the vineyards to winemaking—was entrusted to Brice Laffond, who was already in charge of their property in Beaujolais. Their vineyard consists mainly of old vines, cultivated using organic methods but without certification. The first vintages suggest that this is set to become one of tomorrow’s leading estates—the emergence of a new and serious competitor in the Mâconnais region. The 2017 vintages were featured in the previous edition of our guide alongside the wines from Château du Moulin-à-Vent. Wines from Cras, Chailloux, and Bouthières will quite naturally become future Premier Crus of Pouilly-Fuissé. The 2018 vintages continue this young estate’s upward trajectory in quality; they beautifully showcase their terroirs through well-suited aging profiles.

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé En Bertilionne 1er Cru could very well be the estate’s most remarkable wine this year. It truly embodies everything one hopes to find in a bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé. On the nose, it is more complex than the “Aux Chaillous,” with exquisite definition, evoking images of cool alpine streams and dew-covered Granny Smith apples. On the palate, it displays extraordinary depth and energy, with formidable acidity—though not quite as sharp as that of the “Aux Cailloux”—but the peppery finish is more persistent. Wonderful. 2024–2042