Champagne Philipponnat - Réserve perpétuelle non dosé

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is famous for its Clos-des-Goisses, the largest vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River from a steep cliff and has been in the family’s ownership since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to thrive under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the vines, employing only the essential practices to preserve them. In the cellar, the barrels and large oak casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid to the wines here: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that the aging period far exceeds the norm), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With packaging that reflects the elegant simplicity and distinction of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

The Philipponnat family has owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The crown jewel of their 22-hectare estate (comprising 1er cru and grand cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. It is one of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

Aromas of juicy yellow fruits (peach, nectarine), more tart notes of cherry and raspberry, and the freshness of candied lemon zest combine to create an alluring yet reserved bouquet. The body is well-balanced between creamy bubbles and controlled acidity. The intensity builds to a crescendo, culminating in a slightly jam-like finish reminiscent of strawberries.

Composed of 44% wine from the 2021 vintage and 56% reserve wines stored in a perpetual reserve, Philipponnat’s NV Réserve Perpétuelle Non Dosé—the new name for the former Royale Réserve Non Dosé—was disgorged in December 2024 without dosage. It bursts from the glass with aromas evoking green apple, lemon leaves, and delicate early-blooming white flowers. On the palate, it is medium-bodied to full-bodied and vibrant, driven by incisive acidity and ending with a chalky, very dry finish. Unsurprisingly, with a base vintage like this and no dosage, it has a tighter profile than its Brut counterpart—an expression likely to resonate more deeply with purists.

A beautiful fruit profile with notes of white fruit as well as citrus. The profile is lovely, with well-defined aromas centered on primary freshness and minerality, which lend depth. The palate is finely crafted, with a slender and precise structure.

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne segment thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the decisions made across the entire lineup by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He has introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, reoriented the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage ones. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

This dry, lively champagne features aromas of bread dough, grapefruit, berries, and nuts. It is elegant and medium-bodied, with fine bubbles and a pleasantly dry, lively finish. 66% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, and 2% Meunier. Made from the 2021 base vintage, with 56% reserve wines from a perpetual blend of wines dating back to 1946. Zero dosage. Ready to drink now.