Champagne Philipponnat - Réserve perpétuelle non dosé

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Philipponnat continues its family history in Champagne. Located in Mareuil Sur Ay, the house is famous for its Clos-des-Goisses, the largest vineyard in Champagne (5.5 hectares) overlooking the Marne River, which it has owned since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to grow under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with respect for the essential practices required to preserve it. In the cellar, the barrels and casks set the tone and signature of the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail sums up the attention paid to the wines here: the back label specifies the dates of tirage and disgorging (which show that the aging process is much longer than usual), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. From the elegant, understated packaging to the pedigree of all the cuvées, everything here converges towards perfection.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

The Philipponnats have owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century. As wine merchants and producers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The jewel in the crown of their 22-hectare vineyard (comprising premier cru and grand cru plots) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house's most famous prestige vintage cuvée. It is one of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), located on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne Canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been cellar master since 2005.

Guide des Vins Gault & Millau

About wine:

Aromas of juicy yellow fruits (peach, nectarine), more acidic notes of cherry and raspberry, and the freshness of candied lemon zest contribute to a seductive yet reserved bouquet. The body is balanced between creamy bubbles and controlled acidity. The power builds to a crescendo, culminating in a slightly compote-like finish reminiscent of strawberries.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About wine:

Composed of 44% wine from the 2021 vintage and 56% reserve wines kept in a perpetual reserve, Philipponnat's NV Réserve Perpétuelle Non Dosé, the new name for the former Royale Réserve Non Dosé, was disgorged in December 2024 without dosage. It bursts from the glass with aromas reminiscent of green apple, lemon leaf, and delicate early-blooming white flowers. On the palate, it is medium-bodied to full-bodied and vibrant, carried by incisive acidity and ending with a chalky, very dry finish. Unsurprisingly, with a base year like this and no dosage, it has a tighter profile than its Brut counterpart, an expression that is likely to resonate more deeply with purists.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About wine:

A beautiful fruit with notes of white fruit and citrus. The register is beautiful with well-defined aromas of primary freshness and minerality that bring depth. The palate is chiseled with a slender and precise structure.

About the estate:

Joining the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this medium-sized house is self-sufficient in terms of both sourcing and production. It has made a name for itself in the high-end champagne market thanks to the renewed personality of its Clos des Goisses. The brand's rise is also a reward for the choices made across the entire range by its president Charles Philipponnat, who has been in post since 2000. He introduced cold vinification, shifted the blends towards more Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for vinification in wood on lees without bâtonnage and without malolactic fermentation. His goal? To integrate the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage wines. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

Wine Enthusiast

James Suckling

About wine:

This dry, lively champagne has aromas of bread dough, grapefruit, berries, and nuts. It is elegant and medium-bodied, with fine bubbles and a pleasantly dry and lively finish. 66% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, and 2% Meunier. From the 2021 base vintage, with 56% reserve wines from a perpetual blend of wines started in 1946. Zero dosage. Ready to drink now.