Champagne Philipponnat - Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2015 avec étui

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is renowned for its Clos des Goisses, the largest single vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River and has been in the family’s ownership since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to thrive under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the land. In the cellar, the barrels and casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid here to the wines: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that aging far exceeds the norm), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With packaging that reflects the elegant simplicity and character of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

The Philipponnats have owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The jewel in the crown of their 22-hectare estate (comprising Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. One of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a hillside with steep slopes, overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

While the wine as a whole shows that the 2015 vintage was handled rather well, the oak overpowers the herbal notes; however, the palate lacks cohesion, with more restrained notes in terms of aromatic and tannic maturity. It remains a wine that divides opinion.

About the estate:

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its grape sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne market thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the decisions made across the entire range by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, shifted the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage ones. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

Wine Enthusiast

About the wine:

This iconic single-vineyard champagne comes from a steep, south-facing hillside overlooking the Marne River. This new cuvée, still young but with magnificent potential, is rich in floral aromas and dense white fruit notes, with hints of minerality. Best enjoyed starting in 2026.

Vinous

About the wine:

The Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2015 is a powerful and resonant wine, just like last year’s vintage. In 2015, all the cuvées were aged in oak barrels, giving them remarkable texture and balance. Notes of pear, gingerbread, ginger, dried flowers, and a touch of oak are all beautifully highlighted. An underlying vegetal note, typical of the vintage, lurks in the background but is well integrated. The long finish is striking. The 2015 opens up beautifully with exposure to air, gaining in precision and tension. The dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorgement: March 2024.

James Suckling

About the wine:

It offers a complex nose of brioche, honey, baked pears, salty plums, nuts, and white chocolate. It is superbly refined and silky on the palate, with very soft bubbles and lively acidity that support notes of ripe fruit, honey, and salt. Dry and elegant, with a wonderful freshness from a warm vintage. 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay. Disgorged in March 2024. Dosage of 4.5 g/L. Ready to drink or for aging.

Jeb Dunnuck

About the wine:

Medium straw-gold in color, it is expressive in the glass with ripe, savory notes of black cherries, forest floor, delicately toasted spices, umami, and fresh sourdough bread. Full-bodied, it fills the palate with a very long, savory richness in the mid-palate, revealing pronounced notes of grapefruit on the finish. It has a long finish and a touch of warmth, which is typical for this vintage, while remaining very balanced, with a noble character. An exceptional 2015 wine, the Philipponnat team has made a strong impression with these 2015s. This wine and their other 2015s will likely become prime examples of how wines with the powerful, rich structures of hot vintages can age without relying solely on acidity to carry the torch.