Champagne Philipponnat - Réserve perpétuelle non dosé

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is famous for its Clos des Goisses, the largest single vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River and has been in the family’s possession since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to grow under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the vines. In the cellar, the barrels and casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid here to the wines: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that aging far exceeds the norm), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With packaging that reflects the elegant simplicity and character of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

The Philipponnats have owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The crown jewel of their 22-hectare estate (comprising 1er cru and grand cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. One of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

Guide des Vins Gault & Millau

About the wine:

Aromas of juicy yellow fruits (peach, nectarine), more tart notes of cherry and raspberry, and the freshness of candied lemon zest combine to create an alluring yet reserved bouquet. The palate strikes a balance between creamy bubbles and well-controlled acidity. The intensity builds to a crescendo, culminating in a slightly jammy finish reminiscent of strawberries.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

Composed of 44% wine from the 2021 vintage and 56% reserve wines stored in a perpetual reserve, Philipponnat’s NV Réserve Perpétuelle Non Dosé—the new name for the former Royale Réserve Non Dosé—was disgorged in December 2024 without dosage. It bursts from the glass with aromas evoking green apple, lemon leaf, and delicate early-blooming white flowers. On the palate, it is medium-bodied to full-bodied and vibrant, driven by incisive acidity and ending with a chalky, very dry finish. Unsurprisingly, with a base vintage like this and in the absence of dosage, it has a tighter profile than its Brut counterpart—an expression likely to resonate more deeply with purists.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

A beautiful fruit profile with notes of white fruit and citrus. The wine is well-structured, with clearly defined aromas that highlight its primary freshness and minerality, which lend it depth. The palate is refined, with a slender, precise framework.

About the estate:

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne market thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the choices made across the entire range by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, shifted the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage ones. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

Wine Enthusiast

James Suckling

About the wine:

This dry, lively champagne offers aromas of bread dough, grapefruit, berries, and nuts. It is elegant and medium-bodied, with fine bubbles and a pleasantly dry, lively finish. 66% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, and 2% Meunier. Made from the 2021 base vintage, with 56% reserve wines from a perpetual blend of wines dating back to 1946. Zero dosage. Ready to drink now.