Domaine de Montbourgeau - Montangis 2015

Bettane & Desseauve

About the wine:

The first vintage of a new cuvée, a Chardonnay made from nearly century-old vines, aged for one year with top-up, then two years under a veil of yeast, and finally six months in large oak casks. Powerfully structured, with pronounced nutty notes, this full-bodied, oxidative wine remains well-balanced, with a certain floral and citrusy finesse.

About the estate:

Nicole Deriaux has a soft spot for Chardonnay—preferably with a distinct character—which accounts for nearly 70% of her vineyard (10 hectares in total within the Étoile appellation, including 2 hectares of Savagnin). Her family has owned the estate since 1920, and she has been at the helm for over 25 years, now supported by her sons César and Baptiste. All of her wines showcase the Jura in the most beautiful and delicate way possible, with briny notes, subtle hints of yeast, and soon an interesting chardonnay ouillé (2017 vintage). 2019 is expected to mark the transition to organic farming. Montbourgeau shines at the pinnacle of the Étoile appellation.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

In 1920, Victor Gros, Nicole Deriaux’s grandfather, settled in Montbourgeau. Her father, Jean Gros, further cemented the estate’s reputation. Near the 11 hectares of vineyards lies an idyllic setting, bordered by an avenue of linden trees leading to the wine cellars that surround the family home. A leading estate in the L’Étoile appellation.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

A new vintage of Chardonnay from a vineyard planted in 1920, this 2015 Etoile Montangis follows the style of the ripe, concentrated wines that Nicole’s father and grandfather produced—wines that are slightly high in alcohol and full-bodied. It has the body typical of Chardonnay and the hallmarks of a warm vintage, displaying power, concentration, and good balance, with aromas reminiscent of nuts and dried spices. A powerful and ripe Chardonnay.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

This new vintage comes from a very old Chardonnay vineyard, planted in 1930, with a few scattered Savagnin vines. Generous and full-bodied thanks to the vintage, the wine perfectly embodies the estate’s style, combining “voile” notes (a hint of toasted nuts...) with lively fruit.

About the estate:

Still relatively unknown, the Étoile appellation can produce wines of great finesse, provided the producer demonstrates tact and sensitivity. Nicole Deriaux, assisted by her son César, undoubtedly possesses these qualities. We particularly appreciate the estate’s style—free of frills and artifice—which offers straightforward, intense wines that, without any nostalgia, fit squarely within the finest Jura tradition. The estate’s cuvées achieve superb expressiveness; the Cuvée Spéciale—a Chardonnay aged for a long time under a veil—and the vin jaune are the most consistently excellent. The new Montangis cuvée appears to be cut from the same cloth. This careful and discreet work deserves greater recognition and the full attention of Jura aficionados. The first star is firmly secured.