Thierry Germain - Domaine des Roches Neuves - Clos Romans 2023
97/100
Bettane & Desseauve
93/100
RVF
"A high-flying vintage, a remarkable success".
The finest expression of Chenin for this 2023 vintage, Thierry Germain surprises us yet again. Clos Roman reveals an aromatic palette of white and exotic fruits, with lovely floral notes and sweet spices. Freshness and salinity are exceptional!
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Eye
Bright, straw-yellow colour
Nose
Concentrated, fresh, generous and powerful, with fruity and spicy scents (fresh pears, white pepper, chalk and iodine).
Mouth
Generous, full-bodied, with notes of white and exotic fruit, citrus and floral notes (acacia, hawthorn, rose), subtle oak, fresh, saline finish.
Serve
Decant at 12°C
Open
At least 1 hour before
Drink before
2031
Food and wine pairing
Enjoy with monkfish roast, shallots confit with pear and rosemary, scallops marinated in yuzu then grilled, baby onions and glazed artichokes, large langoustines with Paimpol cocos, periwinkles, Mediterranean sea bream...
Bettane & Desseauve
Wine rated (2026 guide) 97/100
Domaine rated (guide 2026) 5*Stars (Exceptional producers, those who represent the absolute pinnacle of quality in France and the world)
About the domain :
Thierry Germain has made his estate a benchmark for biodynamic viticulture and great Loire wines, while successfully passing on his passion to his children Jeanne and Louis, who now work with him. The wines are dense and full of energy, showcasing the magnificent limestone terroirs of the saumur-champigny appellation, particularly the Clos Romans and Clos de L'Echelier parcel cuvées. Low yields give good concentration to the long, silky reds.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Wine rated (2026 guide) 93/100
Domaine rated (guide 2026) 3*Stars (They represent the excellence of the French vineyard. The best terroirs cultivated by the greatest winemakers. Tasting their wines is always a magical experience)
About the wine:
In 2023, the whites are a success; few Loire chenins can claim this balance in that year. Chiselled, less full-bodied than in 2022, these wines reveal a sharper perception of bitterness.
About the domain :
The charismatic Thierry Germain has defined a singular stylistic approach to Saumur-Champigny and Saumur whites. The extensive work undertaken in the vines (biodynamic, some ploughed with a horse) is evident right from the estate's first cuvée. The latest white vintages reveal a remarkable saline brilliance, getting to the heart of the chalky expression of chenin on tuffeau. They thrill the taste buds and the body! The quest for a crisp, chiselled edge is undeniable in the reds, which can have a ravishing florality. However, we are convinced that they could reveal a more velvety, graceful and ripe balance of Loire Cabernet Franc, in the manner of La Marginale, whose vertical test in April 2024 confirmed its ageing potential.
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