Domaine de la Bégude - Bandol La Brûlade 2019

La Brûlade 2019, a vintage of intense peaks and extremes, is a magnificent Bandol.

The terroir consists of marl and clay soils resting on a limestone base. Guillaume Tari and his wife manage this historic estate with passion and dedication. While preserving nature as much as possible, they produce wines that reflect their philosophy: “Quality is the sum of details, each of which demands precision.” Since the flagship grape variety, Mourvèdre, has the gift of expressing not only the character of its terroir but also that of its winemaker, the wines display a distinctly Bordeaux-style character—sophisticated and well-refined—without ever betraying this splendid and untamed terroir, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

Produced from tiny yields of just over 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2019 Bandol la Brulade is composed almost entirely of Mourvèdre (with about 5% Grenache) and aged in a mix of demi-muids and foudres. If there is one criticism, it is that the fruit is so ripe and the oak so pronounced that the wine lacks a touch of distinctive character. What it does offer is a smooth, supple, medium-bodied wine with pure black cherry and berry flavors framed by notes of oak and soft, ripe tannins on the lingering finish.

The 2019 Brûlade is more balanced, despite a finish that remains austere.

Guillaume and Soledad Tari, from Bordeaux, run this 500-hectare estate, at the heart of which lie 20 hectares of organically farmed vineyards. One of the main characteristics of this winery is its high-altitude location. At 410 meters, La Bégude enjoys a climate very different from that near the coast. With significant temperature fluctuations between day and night, and in a windy area, the Mourvèdre grapes ripen slowly but surely. And on this “stony” terroir, the Grenache takes on a character rarely found in Bandol. With powerful aromas of black fruit and black olives, the reds (50% of production) consistently offer a warm character, pushing the upper limits of ripeness! The rosé is always remarkable for its unique vinosity. The 2019 red is admirably concentrated with a refined expression of fruit. Let’s hope future vintages follow this trend!

On the nose, the fruit is abundant and lustrous, yet it is not without the acidity typical of Bandol and hints of leather. A magnificent, undulating power, with the fruit filling every space without the slightest hint of sweetness. Cedar dust, cut cigars, blackberries, and a wild blend of dried Mediterranean herbs carry through to a long, robust finish, rooted in licorice. It’s impressive now, but I’d set it aside for several years or more.

A fruity nose with hints of smoke, cooked cherries, plums, dried leaves, and sweet spices. It is medium-bodied with ripe tannins. The palate is full-bodied and textured, with weight and balance. Fruity and well-rounded, with a concentrated, serious finish of excellent length. Ready to drink or worth cellaring.

The bouquet is complex, opening with notes of black fruit and a floral hint, complemented by aromas of chocolate and licorice. This linear wine features tannins that are certainly firm, yet refined and supportive. A lively, juicy wine that is ready to be enjoyed. A brief decant is recommended. (45 min.) 2024–2032