Domaine Modat - Côtes du Roussillon Comme Avant 2019

Philippe Modat made up for the thankless nature of his job as a court clerk at the Commercial Court by breathing new life into his wild gneiss-based vineyards in Caramany, with the help of his tireless estate manager, Laurent Abet. Today, his sons Quentin and Louis have taken over, with many projects in mind. Impeccable viticulture, respectful winemaking, and the development of a diverse portfolio—everything is falling into place to help the estate grow and evolve. Promising wines, a cellar brimming with ideas, and a welcome breath of fresh air sweeping through an appellation that sorely needs it.

Of Catalan origin, Philippe Modat, a magistrate, is a knowledgeable wine enthusiast—just like his father, who also became a winemaker. This passion led to the establishment in 2006 of a vineyard in the Agly Valley: 27 hectares of vines on a plateau at an altitude of 300 meters, in the process of converting to organic farming since 2011 (8 hectares cultivated biodynamically), and an ecologically designed winery equipped with solar panels, which opened in 2008.

It seems a bit stronger in alcohol than the 13.5% listed on the label. It has hints of meat, leather, and cooked fruit. It lacks the immediate fruity freshness of Modat’s other reds; it’s a bit subdued, and the tannins are drying. But after sitting in the glass for half an hour, it began to transform. Fresh fruit timidly emerges from beneath the heavier veil of cooked fruit, while notes of sage and rosemary offer a fragrance that contrasts with the wine’s savory body. With exposure to air and decanting, Modat’s characteristic elegance comes to the fore. This wine is definitely worth decanting.