Albert Mann - Pinot Noir Clos de la Faille 2022

Jacky Barthelmé puts it bluntly: “We’re very happy with 2021 because it was a winemaker’s vintage. Those who were out in the vineyards got the grapes. It didn’t happen on its own. ” And it’s clear that tasting the lineup proves him right: Pinot Noirs that are as successful as ever, Rieslings of great beauty, and even Pinot Gris wines that display a drier balance than in the past—which can only delight us.

The estate, born from the union of the Mann and Barthelmé families—two distinguished lines of winemakers dating back to the 17th century—produces wines of the very highest caliber, emblematic of the finest that Alsace has to offer. Maurice, an inspired biodynamic winemaker and occasional dowser, has brought purity to the wines through meticulous work in the vineyard. Jacky and his son Antoine possess a highly refined sense of winemaking for both whites and reds. The wines’ balance, approachability, and depth make them models for all wine lovers. Their four reds rank among the very best of Alsace and are among the finest in France. This success has now made them rare wines.

I love the spicy aromas of allspice and cloves and the generous character of the red berries, but what really sets this wine apart is the wonderfully creamy texture that the very fine tannins give it on the mid-palate, followed by a remarkable minerality that lends the finish a dynamism one wouldn’t expect at first sip.