Domaines Chermette - Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 2023

Martine and Pierre-Marie Chermette are gradually handing over the reins to their son, Jean-Étienne Chermette, who wasted no time in implementing some significant changes. In particular, the estate’s name: Domaines Chermette, replacing Domaine du Vissoux. That said, the essentials remain the same: 31 hectares of red Beaujolais, 5.5 hectares of white Beaujolais, and 16.50 hectares of crus in Fleurie, Brouilly, and Moulin-à-Vent. The estate, renowned for the richness and roundness of its wines, seems to have adopted a more austere style in recent vintages—perhaps one better suited for aging. Nevertheless, the quality remains consistently high, with special mention for the “Garants” and “Les-Trois-Roches” from 2016.

Jean-Étienne Chermette continues to craft one of the region’s most reliable portfolios at this landmark estate in southern Beaujolais. As I’ve written before, old vines, meticulous yet traditional winemaking, and aging in large oak casks are the cornerstones of the approach here. The young Chermette, who has also launched his own label—discussed in this feature—reminded me that the estate earned Terra Vitis certification in 2018, which is definitely a step in the right direction. The 2021 vintage here, as elsewhere, marks a return to a lighter, more ethereal, and succulent style of Beaujolais than the recent hot, dry vintages have tended to offer—but here, these qualities do not come at the expense of flavor or substance.

Les Trois Roches has a complex profile, with notes of roasted, green, and toasty flavors.

The estate’s slogan, “the art of making wine as close to the grape as possible,” perfectly reflects the style of artisan winemaker Pierre-Marie Chermette, who is now joined by Jean-Étienne, one of his sons. He began his career on his parents’ 10 hectares in southern Beaujolais before acquiring 20 hectares in the Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent appellations, and then in Brouilly in 2008. The wines revolve around a core of mature fruit that charms while respecting the identity of the terroirs. A sign of quality, the wines age gracefully even in challenging vintages.