Alphonse Mellot - Génération XIX rouge 2015

A dreamy, silky texture, deep tannins, a highly complex aromatic intensity, and a perfect finish on the palate.

Alphonse Mellot, a skilled winemaker, offers a fascinating interpretation of Sancerre through single-vineyard wines that showcase the nuances of each terroir. The average age of his vines—75 years—allows him to produce an impeccable lineup, with even the entry-level wine—the estate cuvée—already at the highest level. Eighteen hectares in the La Côte de la Charité IGP also attest to his mastery of Chardonnay. We salute the work and inspiration of this tireless enthusiast, whose efforts crown more than 30 years of research and uncompromising dedication.

Mellot’s 2015 Sancerre Génération XIX has become an astonishing Pinot Noir. Dark ruby in color with a brilliant rim, the nose reveals a deep, pure, intense, and slightly reductive yet precise bouquet with spicy notes of morello cherries, crushed stone, and iron, as well as hints of iodine, flint, toast, graphite, herbs, and—after some aeration—dried porcini mushrooms. This 2015 is linear and elegant, yet already complex on the nose. The palate is dense and intense, revealing a full-bodied, lush, and sweet yet spicy, tangy, and refreshing red wine that displays a silky texture with great mineral energy and intensity, wrapped in very fine tannins, stimulating mineral notes, and a long, powerful, yet refined finish. Still young, the 2015 promises remarkable aging potential. It is perhaps one of the most exciting red Sancerres I have tasted to date. The combination of purity, freshness, finesse, and masculine power with tension is utterly fascinating, though it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

Alphonse Mellot Jr., the 19th generation to run the flagship estate in Sancerre, owns 53 hectares of vineyards cultivated using biodynamic methods and offers a range of single-varietal Sancerre wines that are remarkably clear, elegant, and refined. Several of these wines—Edmond, Les Romains, and Génération Dix-Neuf—stand out for their concentration, precision, and expression. This year, I’ve expanded my notes a bit, as I truly sensed differences in complexity among the wines, rather than mere differences in style. Pinot Noir enthusiasts should try the 2014 Les Herses.

A magnificent spicy and floral aroma emanates from this Pinot Noir, which is still reserved and restrained, yet already exhibits very refined tannins. Its voluptuous finish makes it approachable now, but five to six years of bottle aging will do it a world of good.

Founded in 1513, the estate’s current owner, Alphonse Mellot, is the 19th generation to run the family-owned winery. The estate is located in the center of the village and features an extensive network of cellars. With 56 hectares of vineyards, Mellot produces Sancerre for supermarkets (the La Moussière cuvée, made from young vines, is stocked at Sainsbury’s in the United Kingdom, for example) as well as top-tier cuvées made from old vines, such as the Cuvée Edmond, whose grapes come from a 6-hectare plot of old vines within the 38-hectare La Moussière vineyard. The resulting style, fermented in wooden vats of various sizes, is pure and precise and manages to retain an enticing acidity even in hot vintages such as 2018, 2019, and 2020. The flagship wine, Génération XIX, comes from a one-hectare plot at La Moussière where the vines average nearly 90 years of age. Handled with care, it is fermented in 900-liter vats, resulting in an exceptional and alluring Sauvignon Blanc of intense purity and with a structure that will allow it to age gracefully. The estate also produces Pinot Noir: La Demoiselle comes from a rare flint-based terroir that gives it a smoky, spicy, and firm style, while the limestone soils of the Le Paradis vineyard—which contributes to the red Génération XIX—offer a more alluring elegance, and the clay-rich section of Chambrates provides softness and ease. The Pinot Noir wines also make generous use of high-quality oak. Having adopted biodynamic farming very early on, the estate has been certified since 1999.