Markus Molitor - Moselle Riesling Auslese *** Zeltinger Sonnenhur GC 2018 (demi-sec)

The 2018 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (green capsule) is precise and highly aromatic, with a deep, clear, crystalline, and complex nose that reveals irresistibly elegant and very delicate aromas of peach, mirabelle plum, and slate. It has the most refined and seductive nose of all the 2018 feinherb or green-capsule Rieslings, and it couldn’t be more appealing. On the palate, it is a medium-sweet to sweet Auslese—very intense, tight, long, complex, and enduring—with rich yet precise fruit that is highly refined and elegant, walking a crystalline tightrope that lends grip and tension to the very fine slate notes. The wine’s body builds itself up from its inner depth and leads to a lingering, very long, and aromatic finish, whose substance and freshness point to fantastic aging potential. I’m not sure, but in its sensual and seductive character, the 2018 reminds me of Molitor’s 2006. Tasted twice at the estate in September 2020. 2030–2060

If you want to know what the great Moselle wines of a century ago tasted like when they were young, this wine will give you a good idea. It has plenty of herbaceous freshness, but also the deep, rhythmic bass notes of a Bach organ piece, followed by stunning elegance in the long, mineral, and herbaceous finish. Drink now or lay it down.