Marcel Deiss - Alsace Gruenspiel 2018

Bettane & Desseauve

About the wine:

A striking nose of bold floral notes (gentian), leather, and hops. On the palate, this wine is structured by its bitter notes, which lend it a gastronomic balance by cutting through the residual sugars. Original even in its flavors.

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the white wines, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, thereby strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

More reserved on the nose, Gruenspiel unfolds a rounded, spicy profile, transformed by an almost earth-shaking vibrancy. With its notes of gentian and star anise on the finish, its extraordinary character is reminiscent of certain vermouths.

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still practiced by very few and remains a highly divisive issue among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir’s characteristics and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which offers insight into the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it originates.

Vinous

James Suckling