Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the domain :

Although Jean-Michel Deiss spends a lot of time in his vineyards, it's his son Mathieu who is in charge of vinification. An engaging winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of his wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. In the whites, trials of maceration give thickness and depth to the textures on the palate. As a winegrower-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded his vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been devoted to the production of vine plants, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, reinforcing its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking profession.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The Grand Cru Mambourg 2020 offers a beautifully clear and pure, yet intensely aromatic nose of kumquat and bitter orange. On the palate, this is a saline, powerful, tight and concentrated as well as juicy Mambourg Pinot Gris with remarkable finesse and a certain texture and generosity that I don't find today in the 2019 and 2018. At this stage, I really like it, and it's my favorite of the 2018-2020 trio today, even if Mathieu Deiss disagrees and opts for the 2019. 14.3% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in May 2022.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the domain :

Mathieu Deiss succeeds his father Jean-Michel at the head of this venerable Bergheim estate. Complantation is still the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although the process is ancestral in the region, it remains little used and divides winegrowers sharply. The Deisses take this approach one step further, delivering convincing, complex wines with marvellous intensity of flavour and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother's vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces some top-flight orange wines). The wines are out of the ordinary for the region, which is a little disconcerting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to manage their own balance. To be discovered at the estate: the unique experience of geo-sensory tasting, which enables you to understand the relationship between the characteristics of the wine and the terroir in which it was born.

Vinous

About the wine:

Mambourg Grand Cru 2020 comes from oolitic limestone. South-facing, it's a very warm site. A blend of all Pinot varietals (Gris, Blanc, Noir, Auxerrois), this wine opens with notes of melted butter and hazelnut, suggesting opulence. The palate, however, tapers to chalky freshness with total clarity and precision. Concentrated notions of lemon make the mouth water, but it's the stony salinity that grabs you. Intense and long.

James Suckling