Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a lot of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who is in charge of winemaking. An engaging winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of the wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which are more delicate and refined with each vintage. In the whites, maceration trials give thickness and depth to the textures on the palate. A winemaker-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of vine plants and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, reinforcing its autonomy and control over all aspects of the winegrowing profession.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About wine:

The 2020 Mambourg Grand Cru offers a beautifully clear and pure nose, but also intensely aromatic with aromas of kumquat and bitter orange. On the palate, it is a salty, powerful, tight, and concentrated Mambourg Pinot Gris, as well as juicy with remarkable finesse and a certain texture and generosity that I don't find today in the 2019 and 2018 vintages. At this stage, I really like it, and it's my favorite of the 2018-2020 trio today, even though Mathieu Deiss disagrees and opts for the 2019. 14.3% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in May 2022.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father Jean-Michel at the helm of this venerable Bergheim estate. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although the process is ancestral in the region, it is still rarely practiced and strongly divides winegrowers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with wonderful intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother's vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces high-quality orange wines, among other things). The wines are unusual for the region, which is a little confusing for consumers, but the result is magnificent. A few years' hindsight allows us to analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to manage their own balance. Discover the estate's unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which allows you to understand the relationship between the characteristics of the wine and the terroir where it was born.

Vinous

About wine:

The Mambourg Grand Cru 2020 comes from oolitic limestone. Facing south, it is a very warm site. Made from a blend of all Pinot grape varieties (Gris, Blanc, Noir, Auxerrois), this wine opens with notes of melted butter and hazelnut, suggesting opulence. On the palate, however, it tapers off to a limestone freshness with total clarity and precision. Concentrated hints of lemon make your mouth water, but it is the stony salinity that grabs you. Intense and long.

James Suckling