Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The 2020 Mambourg Grand Cru offers a beautifully clear and pure nose that is also intensely aromatic, with notes of kumquat and bitter orange. On the palate, this Mambourg Pinot Gris is briny, powerful, tight, and concentrated, yet juicy, with remarkable finesse and a certain texture and generosity that I don’t find today in the 2019 and 2018 vintages. At this stage, I really love it, and it’s my favorite of the 2018–2020 trio right now, even though Mathieu Deiss disagrees and prefers the 2019. 14.3% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the winery in May 2022.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, as head of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still rarely practiced and remains a major point of contention among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for consumers, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it was born.

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2020 Mambourg Grand Cru is grown on oolitic limestone. Facing due south, it is a very warm site. A blend of all the Pinot varieties (Gris, Blanc, Noir, Auxerrois), this wine opens with notes of melted butter and hazelnut, suggesting opulence. On the palate, however, it tapers into a limestone-driven freshness with total clarity and precision. Concentrated hints of lemon make your mouth water, but it’s the stony salinity that really grabs you. Intense and long-lasting.

James Suckling