Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. A charming winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of the wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend depth and richness to the textures on the palate. As a winemaker-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking craft.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The 2020 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru is deep, precise, and intense, yet refined and briny, with a complex yet pure nose revealing aromas of bitter orange, ripe apricot (stone), and black tea. Full-bodied, generously rich yet refined on the palate, with remarkably fine tannins and a lingering salinity, this is a powerful, deep, complex, and structured Schoenenbourg—yet elegant and long-lasting, beautifully balanced, and with a very long finish. 14% alcohol by volume with 15.7 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in April 2024.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Still somewhat reserved in its bouquet, Schoenenbourg unfolds with a menthol-like freshness, revealing a rich, full-bodied texture. Its earthy character, without any heaviness, bursts forth on the finish into a myriad of peppery, bitter notes: this truly great wine will stand the test of time.

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has taken over from his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grand cru wines. Although the practice is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is rarely followed today and remains a source of strong division among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, notably, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit confusing for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between the wine’s characteristics and the terroir where it was born.

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2020 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru comes from two plots, one planted with Riesling and the other with a traditional blend of grape varieties, which inspired Jean-Michel Deiss to plant additional blends. The vines are rooted in heavy marl soils resting on a gypsum subsoil. The nose is reserved, with only subtle notes of citrus peel and zest, but aeration brings out the citrus aromas. The palate offers a lovely peach-skin bitterness and the texture of citrus peel, along with a gentle, serene peach sweetness. However, the finish is more terroir-driven than fruit-forward. The more it breathes, the more the citrus notes unfold. (Sweet)

James Suckling

About the wine:

What an extraordinary and polarizing expression of the great Schoenenbourg terroir! The interplay between the floral honey notes and the wine’s earthy, dark character is truly exceptional. This masterpiece of Alsatian white wine stubbornly refuses to conform to the simple categories of dry and off-dry white wine. On the finish, richness and salty minerality clash. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now or cellar.

Yves Beck

About the wine:

Still in hibernation mode, the wine reveals notes of flint, followed by a few timid yet subtle hints of chamomile, complemented by citrus aromas. On the palate, the wine surprises with its breadth and fullness. The palate is better suited to setting the stage and offering a glimpse of what’s to come, but the nose already highlights its potential for complexity. All in all, a wine full of ambition. It will require patience. 2026–2046 96/100