Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2020
99/100
James Suckling
98/100 Coup de Cœur
RVF
96/100
Yves Beck
95/100
Robert Parker
95/100
Vinous
"This great wine will defy time" (RVF) "
"What an extraordinary, polarizing expression of the great Schoenenbourg terroir! The interplay between the floral honey and the dark, earthy character of this wine is out of this world. This great masterpiece of Alsace white wine stubbornly refuses to conform to the simple categories of dry and semi-dry white wine. On the finish, richness and salty minerality clash." (James Suckling 2025)
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Eye
Dark, graphite colour
Nose
Warmth, soft-fleshed fruit, yellow, mineral, powerful
Mouth
Calm and pleasant at first, then cold, powerful salivation, tsunami of bitters, iodized, cold logic, dominating, radical, stunning, long and impressive finish.
Serve
Decant 2 hours beforehand, at 10-12°C
Open
Unclogging the day before
Drink before
2065+
Guard
30-50 years
Food and wine pairing
Crustaceans and foods rich in iodine, lobster, poulard, capon, noble fish, caviar after ten years or so...
Bettane & Desseauve
Domaine rated (guide 2023) 5*Stars (Exceptional producers, those who represent the absolute pinnacle of quality in France and the world)
About the domain :
Although Jean-Michel Deiss spends a lot of time in his vineyards, it's his son Mathieu who is in charge of vinification. An engaging winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of his wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. In the whites, trials of maceration give thickness and depth to the textures on the palate. As a winegrower-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded his vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been devoted to the production of vine plants, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, reinforcing its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking profession.
Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Wine rated (2024 guide) 95/100 (Extraordinary wine)
About the wine:
The Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2020 is deep, precise and intense, yet refined and saline, with a complex yet pure nose revealing aromas of bitter orange, ripe apricot (stone) and black tea. Full-bodied, generously rich yet refined on the palate, with remarkably fine tannins and lasting salinity, this is a powerful, deep, complex and structured Schoenenbourg, yet elegant and long-lasting, beautifully balanced and very long on the palate. 14% declared alcohol with 15.7 grams per liter residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in April 2024.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Wine rated ( 2024 guide) 98/100 Favorite
Domaine rated (guide 2024) 4*Stars (They represent the excellence of the French vineyard. The best terroirs cultivated by the greatest winemakers. Tasting their wines is always a magical experience)
About the wine:
Still a little restrained in its aromatics, Schoenenbourg unfurls a nourishing, full-bodied flesh with a minty freshness. Its earthy expression without heaviness explodes on the finish in a myriad of peppery bitters: this great wine will defy time.
About the domain :
Mathieu Deiss succeeds his father Jean-Michel at the head of this venerable Bergheim estate. Complantation is still the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although the process is ancestral in the region, it remains little used and divides winegrowers sharply. The Deisses take this approach one step further, delivering convincing, complex wines with marvellous intensity of flavour and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother's vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces some top-flight orange wines). The wines are out of the ordinary for the region, which is a little disconcerting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to manage their own balance. To be discovered at the estate: the unique experience of geo-sensory tasting, which enables you to understand the relationship between the characteristics of the wine and the terroir in which it was born.
Vinous
Wine rated (2023 guide) 95/100
Rated domain (guide 2023) Recommended
About the wine:
The Schoenenbourg Grand Cru 2020 is made from two parcels, one of Riesling and the other of an old blend of grape varieties, which inspired Jean-Michel Deiss to plant other blends. The vines are rooted in heavy marl resting on gypsum subsoil. The nose is shy, with only subtle notes of citrus peel and zest, but aeration accentuates the aromatic citrus notes. On the palate, there's a lovely bitterness of peach skin and the texture of citrus peel, but also a soft, serene peach sweetness. Yet the finish is more terroir-driven than fruit-driven. The more it airs, the more the citrus fruit reveals itself (Doux).
James Suckling
Wine rated (2025 guide) 99/100
Rated domain (guide 2023) Recommended
About the wine:
What an extraordinary, polarizing expression of the great Schoenenbourg terroir! The interplay between the floral honey and the dark, earthy character of this wine is out of this world. This great masterpiece of Alsace white wine stubbornly refuses to conform to the simple categories of dry and semi-dry white wine. On the finish, richness and salty minerality clash. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. For drinking or cellaring.
Yves Beck
Wine rated (2024 guide) 96/100
About the wine:
Rather in hibernation mode, the wine reveals notes of flint, followed by shy but subtle nuances of chamomile, complemented by citrus scents. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly broad and full-bodied. The palate is more capable of setting milestones and perspectives, but the nose above all already underlines the potential for complexity. All in all, a wine full of ambition. We'll have to wait and see. 2026-2046 96/100
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