Marcel Deiss - Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. A charming winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of the wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend depth and richness to the textures on the palate. As a winemaker-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking craft.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The 2020 Altenberg Grand Cru, with its golden hue, is crystal-clear, deep, elegant, and cocoa-scented on the nose, with citrusy aromas. Generous yet elegant and refined on the palate, this is a full-bodied, complex, and finely tannic Altenberg, with a salty character and a long, smooth, salty, and citrusy finish that reveals notes of dark chocolate, mint, and bitter citrus/orange. 12% alcohol by volume. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in April 2024.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

The Altenberg’s aromatic complexity is already apparent, and although its body still offers a balanced richness, it is meant for aging and will blossom in 15 to 20 years into a magnificent white wine with a fresh, lively character.

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has taken over from his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grand cru wines. Although the practice is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is rarely followed today and remains a source of strong division among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, notably, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit confusing for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between the wine’s characteristics and the terroir where it was born.

Vinous

James Suckling

About the wine:

Very honeyed and exotic, with incredible depth of mango aromas and more subtle notes of candied orange and hard caramel. So concentrated and precise, with as much vitality as density on the palate—full-bodied yet energetic. It is just beginning to enter a dimension all its own. What incredible energy in this extremely long finish. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now or celller.

Yves Beck

About the wine:

A superb bouquet that combines complexity, radiance, and intensity. Hints of vetiver, leaves, curry, and citrus, all while hinting at sweetness. This sweetness is, of course, immediately apparent on the palate. The wine is very complete, well-rounded, youthful yet well-structured, composed, and ready to stand the test of time—or rather, the decades to come. A wine that successfully blends austerity, charm, and freshness. 2028–2045 96/100