Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. A charming winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of the wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend depth and richness to the textures on the palate. As a winemaker-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking craft.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The 2020 Mambourg Grand Cru offers a beautifully clear and pure nose, yet intensely aromatic, with notes of kumquat and bitter orange. On the palate, it is a salty, powerful, tight, and concentrated Mambourg Pinot Gris, as well as juicy, with remarkable finesse and a certain texture and generosity that I don’t find today in the 2019 and 2018 vintages. At this stage, I really love it, and it’s my favorite of the 2018–2020 trio today, even though Mathieu Deiss disagrees and prefers the 2019. 14.3% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in May 2022.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has taken over from his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grand cru wines. Although the practice is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is rarely followed today and remains a source of strong division among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, notably, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit confusing for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between the wine’s characteristics and the terroir where it was born.

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2020 Mambourg Grand Cru is grown on oolitic limestone. With its south-facing exposure, it is a very warm site. A blend of all the Pinot varieties (Gris, Blanc, Noir, Auxerrois), this wine opens with notes of melted butter and hazelnut, suggesting opulence. On the palate, however, it tapers into a limestone-driven freshness with total clarity and precision. Concentrated hints of lemon make your mouth water, but it is the stony salinity that grabs you. Intense and long.

James Suckling