Domaine Marcel Deiss - Alsace Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2006 (37,5cl)

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The result of a grain-by-grain selection process, Deiss’s 2006 Gewurztraminer Selection De Grains Nobles Quintessence reveals aromas of quince jam and honey on the nose, intertwined with notes of rose petals, gardenia, resin, and dark spices. On the palate, it offers a creamy, almost ethereal texture, over which notes of caramel, nut paste, and butter caramel unfold, without ever detracting from the remarkable clarity of the floral and spicy nuances. Here is another example of concentration resulting from botrytis, completely free of any impurity or trace of mold. The finish is like an aurora borealis of nuanced flavors, and one gets so carried away by it that the sweetness is the last thing one notices. It is important for the character of a wine like this, explains Deiss, that there also be tiny, non-botrytized berries in the blend—even in a vintage like 2006, where he describes the condition of the fruit as “tired.” In this particular case, they were exhausted for a good cause! There is no doubt that this wine will be fascinating to follow for the next 30 to 40 years.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, as head of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still rarely practiced and remains a major point of contention among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for consumers, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it was born.

Vinous

James Suckling