Domaine Marcel Deiss - Alsace Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2006 (37,5cl)

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking. A charming winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of the wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend depth and richness to the textures on the palate. As a winemaker-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking craft.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The result of a grain-by-grain selection, Deiss’s 2006 Gewurztraminer Selection De Grains Nobles Quintessence reveals aromas of quince jam and honey on the nose, intertwined with notes of rose petals, gardenia, resin, and dark spices. On the palate, it offers a creamy, almost ethereal texture, over which notes of caramel, walnut paste, and butterscotch unfold, without ever detracting from the remarkable clarity of the floral and spicy nuances. Here is another example of concentration resulting from botrytis, completely free of any impurity or trace of mold. The finish is like an aurora borealis of nuanced flavors, and one gets so carried away by it that the sweetness is the last thing one notices. It is important for the character of a wine like this, explains Deiss, that there also be tiny, non-botrytized berries in the blend—even in a vintage like 2006, where he describes the condition of the fruit as “tired.” In this particular case, they were exhausted for a good cause! There is no doubt that this wine will be fascinating to follow for the next 30 to 40 years.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grand cru wines. Although the practice is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is rarely followed today and remains a source of significant division among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with a marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, notably, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss at the estate: the unique experience of geo-sensory tasting, which helps you understand the relationship between the wine’s characteristics and the terroir where it was born.

Vinous

James Suckling