Marcel Deiss - Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The 2020 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru is deep, precise, and intense, yet also refined and briny, with a complex yet pure nose that reveals aromas of bitter orange, ripe apricot (stone), and black tea. Full-bodied, generously rich yet refined on the palate, with remarkably fine tannins and a lingering salinity, this is a powerful, deep, complex, and structured Schoenenbourg—yet elegant and long-lasting, beautifully balanced, and with a very long finish. Declared alcohol content of 14% with 15.7 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted at the estate in April 2024.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Still somewhat reserved on the nose, Schoenenbourg reveals a rich, full-bodied texture with a menthol-like freshness. Its earthy character, without any heaviness, bursts forth on the finish into a myriad of peppery, bitter notes: this truly great wine will stand the test of time.

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, as head of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still rarely practiced and remains a major point of contention among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for consumers, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it was born.

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2020 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru comes from two plots, one planted with Riesling and the other with a traditional blend of grape varieties, which inspired Jean-Michel Deiss to plant other blends. The vines are rooted in heavy marl resting on a gypsum subsoil. The nose is reserved, with only subtle notes of citrus peel and zest, but aeration brings out the citrus aromas. On the palate, it offers a lovely peach-skin bitterness and the texture of citrus peel, along with the gentle, serene sweetness of peach. However, the finish is more focused on the terroir than on the fruit. The more it breathes, the more the citrus notes reveal themselves. (Sweet)

James Suckling

About the wine:

What an extraordinary and polarizing expression of the great Schoenenbourg terroir! The interplay between the floral honey notes and the earthy, dark character of this wine is extraordinary. This great masterpiece of Alsatian white wine stubbornly refuses to conform to the simple categories of dry and off-dry white wine. On the finish, richness and salty minerality clash. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Ready to drink now or for aging.

Yves Beck

About the wine:

Still somewhat in hibernation mode, the wine reveals notes of flint followed by a few timid yet subtle hints of chamomile, complemented by citrus aromas. On the palate, the wine surprises with its breadth and fullness. The palate is better suited to setting benchmarks and offering prospects, but the nose already highlights its potential for complexity. All in all, this is a wine full of promise. It will require patience. 2026–2046 96/100