Marcel Deiss - Grasberg 2021 (demi-sec)

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the white wines, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, thereby strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

Grown on a late-ripening plateau with a slight northern exposure, on Jurassic limestone soil at an elevation of 340 meters, the 2021 Grasberg “The Hill Where Grass Grows,” with its lemony hue, opens with delicate saline notes from the terroir and a subtle blend of stone fruits, lychees, chamomile, and brioche. Elegant, slightly sweet (thanks to 38 grams of residual sugar per liter) yet also very mineral, this is a rich, intensely fruity white wine—salty and slightly bitter—with fine tannins and a long, tart, and promising finish, featuring notes of grapefruit bitterness. It possesses a fascinating complexity that will fully express itself in 10 years. Declared alcohol content: 14%. Tasted at the estate in April 2024.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Hints of orange marmalade in Grasberg—very refined and easy to drink, remarkable for the brilliance of its fresh fruit, its liveliness, and its lingering finish.

About the estate:

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, at the helm of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still practiced by very few and remains a highly divisive issue among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir’s characteristics and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which offers insight into the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it originates.

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2021 Grasberg is a blend of Riesling and Gewürztraminer from a high-altitude, late-ripening terroir composed of iron-rich Jurassic limestone, located at the summit of the Altenberg Grand Cru, on a gentle north-facing slope at an elevation of 350 meters. A hint of tropical fruit captivates with its aromatic notes of mango. On the palate, it is round, creamy, and bursting with fruit; the mango reappears among juicy notes of yellow peach and passion fruit. This wine is rich, round, and incredibly juicy, but all of this gives way to a crisp, slightly phenolic finish that brings together this array of exuberant fruits with total clarity. The 40 g/L of sugar makes for a hedonistic, fruity experience. (Semi-dry)

James Suckling

About the wine:

Aromas of floral honey and caramelized pineapple. Concentrated, velvety, and incredibly fresh. A lovely acidity that makes this wine seem much lighter than it actually is and gives it a surprising burst of energy on the finish, where a hint of crème brûlée doesn’t make it sweet. From this producer’s highest-altitude vineyard, located above the Altenberg Grand Cru. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Enjoy now or cellar.

Yves Beck

About the wine:

Vines growing on Jurassic limestone, high up on the northern slope of the Altenberg. The Grassberg’s intense bouquet reveals floral, fruity, and mineral notes. Smooth on the palate, the wine is nonetheless linear and precise. It has character, charm, minerality, and length. What a compelling and exhilarating harmony! Now – 2041 94/100