Le Clos du Caillou - Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Sylvie Vacheron, recently joined by her daughter Marilou, draws on a vineyard located in the northeastern part of the appellation, part of which produces excellent Côtes-du-Rhône wines, very close to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards. These wines achieve a very high level of expression, with skillfully aged, full-bodied wines that offer a long finish. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines have joined the very select circle of the appellation’s finest wines and are crafted to reflect the character of their terroir.

Decanter

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

Led by Sylvie Vacheron for over 20 years, alongside oenologist Bruno Gaspard, this organically farmed estate has 54 hectares of vineyards, including 9 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 44 hectares in Côtes-du-Rhône (part of which, Le Clos, is located entirely within the Châteauneuf appellation). The 2020 acquisition of Domaine de Panisse—6.5 hectares in Châteauneuf and 5 hectares in Côtes-du-Rhône—is intended to bring in the next generation: Axel and Marilou, Sylvie’s children.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

Made from grapes grown in sandy soils, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve is an alluring blend of elegance and power. Unfolding in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, peonies, crushed strawberries, and exotic spices, it is medium-bodied to full-bodied, round and juicy, with an enveloping core of fruit, velvety tannins, and a long, lively, and delicate finish. A blend of 60% Grenache Noir and 40% Mourvèdre, aged for 14 months in a mix of used barrels (40%) and large casks, this is not the most outgoing wine in the lineup, but it is undoubtedly a wine meant for the cellar.

About the estate:

Always one of my most eagerly anticipated visits, Le Clos du Caillou continues to produce some of the finest, most consistent Châteauneufs, year after year. Marilou Vacheron and Bruno Gaspard are generally candid in their assessments of the vintages.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

The 2023 Reserve combines refined tannins with the smoothness of a deep, full-bodied palate. This long, full-bodied wine is undoubtedly the finest in the series.

About the estate:

Le Clos du Caillou, a 53-hectare estate located in the town of Courthézon, has been certified organic since 2010. Sylvie Vacheron and her children, Marilou and Axel, who recently returned to the estate, have guided the wines toward greater finesse and depth. Along with Château de Panisse in 2020, Clos du Caillou acquired an additional 6.5 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 7.5 hectares in Côtes du Rhône. Old Cinsault vines planted in the 1950s and Grenache vines from the 1920s are also part of the acquisition.

Wine Spectator

About the wine:

A decadent and opulent style characterized by a refreshing hint of herbs and dried garrigue, with a touch of graphite for balance. Red currant and plump cherry blend with dried garrigue and gingerbread. The concentrated finish reveals a pleasant meaty flavor, underscored by elegant and refined tannins. There’s plenty to love. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Enjoy now through 2040.

Jancis Robinson

Vinous

About the wine:

The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve [...] comes alive on the palate, with full-bodied richness, velvety tannins, and impressive energy and intensity. The lively acidity adds a touch of freshness that lingers through the elegant finish. The 2023 says, “Look at me.”

James Suckling

About the wine:

A refined, balanced, and appealing red wine with aromas of sweet cherries, strawberries, roasted meat, dried thyme, and hints of dried flowers. It is medium-bodied to full-bodied with finely grained tannins. A juicy and charming texture on the palate, with a delightful character featuring notes of pulpy fruit and orange. A brilliant finish. Enjoy now or cell it.

Jeb Dunnuck

About the wine:

Black cherries, black raspberries, leather, fragrant floral notes, subtle pepper, and hints of minerality define the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve, blended from 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre grown on the sandy soils of Safre in the Guigasse and Pignan vineyards, fully destemmed and aged for 14 months in 60% demi-muids and 40% neutral barrels. It is medium-bodied to full-bodied, with a pure and complex palate, ripe tannins, and exceptional length. Technically, it is nearly perfect, but I find that this cuvée currently lacks a bit of character, especially when compared to the Les Quartz cuvée. Nevertheless, with approximately 600 cases produced, it is clearly a magnificent and elegant wine that will age beautifully for over 15 years. Best enjoyed between 2025 and 2040.

About the estate:

The Vacheron family, Bruno Gaspard, and consultant Philippe Cambie continue to work their magic at this modestly sized vineyard located on the eastern edge of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They produce a wide range of wines, all remarkable, with their two flagship Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, the Quartz and La Réserve, bordering on perfection in just about every vintage.