Zind-Humbrecht - Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendanges Tardives 2005

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

For three decades, this estate has been a model for Alsatian viticulture, telling the story of the Humbrecht family. Léonard, the founder, was a visionary who acquired the region's finest terroirs, including the famous Rangen. Olivier, his son, brilliantly introduced the principles of biodynamics in the 1990s. And today, Pierre-Émile, who arrived at the estate during the very complicated 2021 vintage, is continuing their work, particularly on the latest acquisitions on the Sommerberg.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About wine:

The Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive 2005 displays a honeyed purity similar to Clos Jebsal, but with even greater refinement and clarity. Apricot and yellow plum preserves, lychee, musk, and chalk mingle on the nose and palate, and a lingering juiciness spreads throughout, balancing 91 grams of residual sugar that is hard to believe. Bittersweet hints of licorice, citrus oils, and vanilla add to the undeniable fascination of the honeyed richness and chalkiness. This wine with its long finish also has the potential to be among the greatest keepers of the vintage. Olivier Humbrecht compares his 2004 to 1992. These are the two most generous vintages in recent times, offering truly dry wines with fairly high acidity. Although he described 2004 as earlier than 2005, Olivier Humbrecht continued harvesting until early November, insisting that this was only possible thanks to his rigorous biodynamic viticultural practices and the resulting generally healthy fruit. Olivier Humbrecht also insists that he did not seek botrytis, as the rain made noble rot almost impossible. But it certainly sometimes seems that botrytis seeks him out! The price of his extended harvest was high alcohol, which I found difficult to sustain gracefully in some wines; and acidity levels occasionally reached extremes. Overall, in fact, I have never tasted such a rage of quality or so many unusually distinctive and sometimes downright unfathomable wines compared to 2004. 2005, says Olivier Humbrecht, brought a lot of botrytis, especially with Pinot Gris, but later ripening, still with tremendous acidity and extraction thanks to a cool, well-watered August. Almost all Riesling musts ferment dry. Olivier Humbrecht considers it a classic vintage for Gewurztraminer (in most cases dry). And despite the blanket of rot that fell on the Pinot Gris vineyards, a cold spell of five days with virtually no clouds allowed for patient and rigorous fruit selection. A tribute to the maturity and high tartaric acidity of these 2005s is that although well over half of his Riesling and Pinot Gris batches underwent malolactic fermentation, an experienced taster would be hard pressed to identify which ones! "If we had had the difficult October of 2004 in 2005 as well," he says, "most of the 04s would be better than the 05s. "But as things turned out—October 2005 being the second warmest after 2001 in the last decade—Olivier Humbrecht believes that in the long term, these two vintages will prove to be well matched in terms of overall quality.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

A tireless ambassador for his wines and the region, Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title of Master of Wine, has long understood the importance of working in the vineyard. He converted the estate to biodynamics in 1999 and is one of its leading advocates, as well as being president of the Biodyvin label. This type of cultivation has enabled him to eliminate botrytis and reduce alcohol levels. The wines have evolved over the years and now have a decidedly dry style, and the large casks age them several meters underground. Like all great Alsace wines, they reach their full potential after a few years or decades of aging. Clos Windsbuhl is a must-try, and Rangen de Thann has established itself over time. Pierre-Emile, Olivier's son, has just joined the estate. The excellence of this production, respected by all, has earned this iconic property a place in our guide's pantheon with a fourth star.

James Suckling